dual t-case's for a auto

[D-Krawler]

i want to know if any body know's if there is any toyota automatic transmission that you can dual case and if so were can i find a adapter.

[Oatmeal]

Here you go: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377855 ......Hans

[D-Krawler]

so with that adapter do you use two auto tcases or two manual tcases

[Josh C]

Call Marlin before you order and see if they have there seal issure resolved. They had trouble with the tranny seal going out and dumping fluid into the x-fer case. I had several issues with my setup from them ( i have a 5spd ) and each time they made it right but it was just a pain in the behind to ship the case back and remove it and reinstall and such. Dave at Marlin went out of his way to make it right but it's almost enough to make me say I'm just gonna go with Jim over at inchworm gear next time. I would have this time but he didn't have his adapters ready when I needed them and his V6 stuff was coming out first which did no good for my 2.7

[D-Krawler]

k so does it matter which auto i have and about how much will i pay all with every thing in and working

[D-Krawler]

and do i have to also have the crawler adapter on top of this

[badyota]

I have 90 4-runner w/auto v6 and i just had a dual transfer face put in my yota and i love it its a little much but when you want to play you pay

[fourwd1]

and do i have to also have the crawler adapter on top of this


To put dual cases on the auto you need :

the auto to t-case adapter
the dual t-case adapter
2 gear (not chain) driven manual t-cases (your auto t-case is not used)

[ToyRunner1]

I've not run them personally, but I hear that 2 cases on an auto doesn't work real good when trying to stop. I've had a couple of buddies running autos that said the trans couldn't tell when it was supposed to "slip", like at a stop light, because of the extreme crawl ratio. I'm running a single case but plan on at least putting the 4.7s in it at some point. If someone has different information, please speak up as this is something I'd consider as well.

[ZUK]

To put dual cases on the auto you need :

the auto to t-case adapter
the dual t-case adapter
2 gear (not chain) driven manual t-cases (your auto t-case is not used)

correct fourwd1. You will love a dual tcased auto :redspotda



Toyrunner-- It is true that an auto may not want to stop crawling with dual transfers...but you make it sound like it's some sort of 'bad-point' when all it really means is NEUTRAL is now your friend......kind of like a 5 speed manual that has super low gearing and the brakes won't stop it either unless the clutch is held in. ZUK

[ToyRunner1]

Sorry, I wasn't trying to make it sound like it was a show stopper. With my drive train I normally have to put it in neutral when trying to stop in bad weather anyways, so I'm used to it. A lot of people want the auto so that they can ignore it and, from my understanding, that's not the case when going to duals. Even running stock gears I normally have to give mine gas to keep up when locked into low/1st, and I'm only running a 2.58 low range. Just about the only time I've actually had to use the brakes is when following a dual'd Toy or someone with an Atlas. I am seriously interested in hearing from those who already have this setup as I am still thinking about doing it myself. I would probably want 4.7s in the main case and 2.28s in the rear. That way I'd have the very low range the majority of the time but could still go lower if wanted. I don't see ever needing dual 4.7s with the wheeling that I do.

[ZUK]

Toyrunner--- A pair of 2.28 transfer cases and 571 gears is the ticket to a well-balanced driveline (with 33" or larger tires, of course). :redspotda

[Oatmeal]

Here's the latest (and sounds like THE one to get) one: http://gearslug.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=88140cb760dc4bdc99e138d2a6fdb9 e0 ..........Hans

[ToyRunner1]

5.71s? We put 5.29s in it just after building it and it was rapping too high at highway speeds with 33s (this was by ear as I still haven't hooked the tach back up from the engine swap). I'm running the stock 4.10s right now, but planned on going to 4.88s. You're the man for gears from everyone I've talked to, but are 5.71s strong enough for a built engine pushing 35s with a locker? I did manage to trash a set of stock V6 4.10s, but that was my fault for not getting everything set back up properly after replacing my pinion seal.

[ZUK]

5.71s? We put 5.29s in it just after building it and it was rapping too high at highway speeds with 33s (this was by ear as I still haven't hooked the tach back up from the engine swap). I'm running the stock 4.10s right now, but planned on going to 4.88s. You're the man for gears from everyone I've talked to, but are 5.71s strong enough for a built engine pushing 35s with a locker? I did manage to trash a set of stock V6 4.10s, but that was my fault for not getting everything set back up properly after replacing my pinion seal.

I guess I'm a little slow on answering your question Toyrunner :grin: ...my 87 Runner was just a 22RE so I did the balancing act thing and decided 571 was good for me....and it was. I suppose 571 is not everyone's cup of tea though. Mine saw both trail and highway....and it does rev high....maybe too high for some folks. Mine is an auto so the revving situation is way worse with a manual tranny with small 33" tires.
Regarding the 571 gear strength....IF the truth be known, 571 gears have the same "thru torque" as 410 or 456 or 488 or 529. If the 571 gears were cut properly in the first place then the tooth contact and tooth strength the same. The size of the pinion in a properly designed hypoid gearset has little to do with strength or implied loss of strength.
Most gear installs are not done 100% correct so things tend to explode when the strain is applied. This is key as to why so many rumors are on the BBS.