82 22R into an 87

[Matt87pu]

For the past 2 months or so I've been trying to put an 82 22R into my 87 pickup. I haven't worked on it everyday or anything, just when I have free time. For some reason I can't seem to get the engine close enough to the tranny to put a bolt in. I have the engine on a cherry picker type of set up and the tranny is jacked up, and I have tried lowering/rasing them at the same time and that doesn't seem to work. I've tried turning the crank once the input shaft is in the back and that doesn't seem to work. So I'm lost. I have the engine and tranny at the same angle I'm pretty sure. There is an equal amount of gap all the way around the engine and tranny, which is about an inch. So my question is why won't this go in. The 82 22R was hooked up to an auto tranny so I put my clutch on and aligned it. I changed out the flex plate and everything. I'm wondering it that is a problem or if its cause it came out of a 2 wheel drive truck. If not than can anybody help me. I've posted this before and did everything people suggested and I still can't get it in. so I'm totally confused now. I'm thinking of just rebuilding the motor that came out of the 87 in the first place. If I did that shouldn't the motor pretty much slide back in without much problems or am I bound to run into problems either way. So I guess my main question is, is there any thing different with the 82 motor that won't let it go in because its from an auto and a 2 wheel drive. Thanks.

[wsuweston]

Can you get the engine and tranny together with it out of the truck? If soo just put them together and drop it in all at once. I had to do that on my old car. Just my 2cents

[Matt87pu]

I could try that. I don't really know how I would put it back in. I heard that yotas are hard to put the engine and tranny together back in. But its worth a try. Thanks

[WadeYoungs]

You realize that your trying to put a early model 22r where a new model 22re should go right? after 85 all engines wether carburated or efi all were 22re engine blocks, meaning they are a bit taller, and have differnt pistons,(flat not domes), this may be stopping you from doing it, the trannys may not be compatable for some reason, the fact that it was a auto may have alot to do with it, there are alot of variables, but you would be better off rebuilding the "re" block, its better desighn power wise, that is if you can afford to rebuild a motor right now, if you have to use the older motor i would talk to a mechanic that specializes in toyota and tell him what your doing to see what he says.


wade

[Rockcrawlintoy]

not to mention if u have to smog it that it wont pass.

Drew

[neil_P_smith]

the trany will work with the motor, same bellhousing on all 2.4L 4 cyls, sounds like it is just beaing a pain i had one do it to me, just need to work at it and maby slide it in all as one. make sure you have the right aemount of douls in the block/trany. if you have two in the same place it will hold them apart.

[tonkatoy]

get the tranny as close to the engine then with (i think) 19mm socket with wrench. put it on the forwardend of the crank and rotate clock wise. this should make the tranny slid right in. good luck :beer: :yes:

[Matt87pu]

I tried turning the crank and it didn't suck it up. How many douls should I have? I'll check tomorrow and see if two are hitting. Can anybody tell me a foresure answer on if is the highth thats keeping it from going in? I'm not to worried about smog because my truck already passed and then my RE engine went out. It passed smog with no smog euipment and holes up and down my exuast system. The guy here doesn't do a visual. I'm really thinking about rebuilding the other block but that means I have to wait a little longer for my truck to be done cause I can't afford it all at once. Thanks.

[64-Driver]

Schucks has a $35.00 tool that is awsome for installing the engine in one piece. It hooks to your cherry picker and allows you to thread the load forward and aft about 12". This allows the tranny to be pointed down and slid under the cab. BUY ONE and put it together on the ground.

[Matt87pu]

I would buy one but I don't have a cherry picker. I basically have a big A frame with a chain hoist on it. If you think this tool you are talking about will work then I'll give it a shot. Thanks

[JOKER]

after 85 all engines wether carburated or efi all were 22re engine blocks, meaning they are a bit taller,


wade

You got it backwards older is taller.
LC Engineering Tech (http://www.lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote4.htm)

[Matt87pu]

So will a taller engine fit where a shorter one use to be?

[JOKER]

Yes, I runn a DOA engine and it is an 84 block with an 87 head.

[azredliner]

Try aligning the output shaft with the clutch disk.

[Matt87pu]

What do you mean? Thanks

[azredliner]

I sent an earlier message but I will say it again for the benafit of the other members. You need to buy or borrow a clutch aligning tool to align the clutch assembly with the crankshaft. This is done so you can slide the pilot shaft or also called the output shaft of the tranny into and through the clutch assembly in to the pilot bushing that is located inside the rear of the crankshaft. Email me at azredliner@msn.com if you need more info. I can reply with some illustrations. OK?

[azredliner]

To install:

Before installing any new parts, make sure that they are clean. During installation, do not get grease or oil on any of the components, as this will shorten clutch life considerably.

Position the clutch disc against the flywheel. On Pick-Ups, the short side of the splined section faces the flywheel. On Land Cruisers, the long side of the splined section faces the flywheel.

Install the clutch cover over the disc and install the bolts loosely. Align the matchmarks made during Step 2. If a new or rebuilt clutch cover assembly is installed, use the matchmark on the old cover assembly as a reference.

Align the clutch disc with the flywheel using a clutch aligning tool, which is available in most auto stores at a reasonable price.

With the clutch aligning tool installed, tighten the clutch cover bolts gradually in a star pattern, as is done with lug nuts. Finally tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
Install the transmission. :Thumbsup:

[bbagwell]

Every time I use an alignment tool I fight the transmission to get it in. Every time I don't use the alignment tool the tranny slides in effortlessly.

[azredliner]

Are you talking about an automatic transmission? A standard would be extremely hard to install, without the tool.

It's very didficult to lign up the clutch disk with the pilot bushing. The pilot shaft is not going to allow any leaway. It has to be perfect. I'm not saying it can't be done. Because I've had to do it. But why be like this dude?> :cuss:

[bbagwell]

Just eyeball the clutch disk, feel around the edges and tighten down the pressure plate. Nothing to it, it works better for me to just eyeball it then use the alignment tool.

[Matt87pu]

I have everything center. I can get the input shaft into the clutch. That isn't the problem. The problem is that for some reason I just can't get the engine all the way up to the tranny to put a bolt in. The engine ends up hitting the firewall and there is still a gap all the way around the engine and the tranny. I am pretty sure I have the engine and tranny at the same angles. I have tired lowering the engine and tranny at the same angles. I have also tried raising them at the same angles. I have tried using a ratchet with a 19mm socket on the front of the engine to turn it over and it still doesn't suck up. I have tried ratchting it with the truck in and out of gear. It seems like for some reason there is something holding the engine from the tranny about an Inch to an inch and a half. Thats my problem.

[81toy4x4]

Your putting this into an IFS truck correct? Did you check to see if you were hitting something that wasn't there on the older style truck? It doesn't matter what motor you put in, it should fit.

[azredliner]

Maybe the pilot bushing on the newer engine is a different size than the one on the older tranny?

[azredliner]

Well, if none of my theories work out, pull that 4 cylinder out and drop in a big block Chevy! :Rockonman

[Matt87pu]

The engine came out of an IFS yota cause it was an 82 2wheel. I put a new pilot bearing in and its the same size as the one in the other motor. Thats what you mean by pilot bushing right?

[azredliner]

Yeah. That's exactly what I meant. :yes: I don't know what else it could be that is not letting you stab that all the way in. Once you get the tranny up and started in, did you try spinning the tranny? Or rotating the motor? I can only guess, it's the splines not matching up. Or maybe the stick is holding you from going all the way forward. Did you remove the stick?
I had the opposite happen to me once. I had a 1978 Chevy LUV (Light Utility Veheicle). The tranny became one with the engine. I couldn't put it in gear while the truck was running. Pushing in the clutch peddle had "zero" effect. I thought I had a clutch problem. When I went to replace the clutch, the first step in the process is to remove the tranny. It would not come loose from the block. I wrestled with that thing for 3 days. Finally I removed the entire engine and tranny from the truck. After a 30 minute struggle and some friendly persuasion (6 foot wrecking bar and a sledge hammer) I got the engine and tranny divorced from each other. The problem was the pilot bushing had melted, and fused the pilot shaft and the crank shaft together. I had to get another tranny. :cuss: This was just a story I thought I would share. :beer:

[Matt87pu]

That really sucks about your story. I've tried turning the engine and even the driveshaft and non of that helped. When I turn the engine I can see the drive shaft turning. I didn't remove the stick but I'm sure its not hitting. THe person that had the truck before me cut out all the metal around the stick so I'm sure it has the clearence it needs for what I'm doing. Thanks

[azredliner]

1985-88

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the console box or floor mat, and remove the shift lever boot retainer. Raise the boot and remove the shift lever assembly.

Drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect the upper radiator hose.

Raise the truck and support it on safety stands.

Drain the fluid from the transmission.

Remove the driveshaft and plug the extension housing to prevent oil seepage.

Disconnect the speedometer cable.

Disconnect the back-up light switch wire.

Remove the exhaust pipe clamp and exhaust pipe.

Remove the clutch release cylinder mounting bolts and tube bracket and then position the cylinder out of the way.

Remove the lower starter mounting bolt and then remove the starter.

Remove the 4 rear engine mount bolts at the extension housing. Position a block of wood on a floor jack and raise the engine slightly. Remove the 4 rear mount-to-support member bolts and remove the rear engine mount.

Tape a piece of wood about 50mm thick onto the front crossmember and then lower the transmission.

Remove the exhaust pipe bracket.

Remove the stiffener plate bolts.

Remove any remaining transmission housing bolts.

With a floor jack under the transmission case, pull it toward the rear and slowly lower it until it can be removed from the truck. On models using the R150 transmission, turn the transmission about 45° clockwise and slide it toward the rear, lower the front and then remove it from the truck.

Be careful not to damage the extension housing dust deflector.

To install:

Position the transmission case so the input shaft splines align with the clutch disc and push it fully into position. Install the 2 upper mounting bolts.

Install the transmission housing and stiffener plate bolts. Tighten the transmission bolts to 53 ft. lbs. (72 Nm) and the stiffener plate bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

Install the rear engine mount and bracket. Tighten the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Raise the engine slightly and position the rear engine mount in the support member and tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).

Lower the transmission until it rests on the rear mount. Install the 4 bolts and tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).

Remove the piece of wood from the front crossmember.

Install the exhaust pipe, bracket and clamp. Tighten the pipe bolts to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm). Tighten the upper pipe bracket bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) and the lower one to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm).

Install the starter with the lower bolt only and install the clutch release cylinder tube bracket.

Install the clutch release cylinder and tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

Connect the speedometer cable.

Connect the back-up light switch.

Remove the extension housing plug and install the driveshaft.

Fill the transmission with oil and lower the truck.

Install the upper starter mounting bolt.

Install the shift lever.

Refill the transmission and radiator. Connect the battery cable and road test the truck.

[azredliner]

For the past 2 months or so I've been trying to put an 82 22R into my 87 pickup. I haven't worked on it everyday or anything, just when I have free time. For some reason I can't seem to get the engine close enough to the tranny to put a bolt in. I have the engine on a cherry picker type of set up and the tranny is jacked up, and I have tried lowering/rasing them at the same time and that doesn't seem to work. I've tried turning the crank once the input shaft is in the back and that doesn't seem to work. So I'm lost. I have the engine and tranny at the same angle I'm pretty sure. There is an equal amount of gap all the way around the engine and tranny, which is about an inch. So my question is why won't this go in. The 82 22R was hooked up to an auto tranny so I put my clutch on and aligned it. I changed out the flex plate and everything. I'm wondering it that is a problem or if its cause it came out of a 2 wheel drive truck. If not than can anybody help me. I've posted this before and did everything people suggested and I still can't get it in. so I'm totally confused now. I'm thinking of just rebuilding the motor that came out of the 87 in the first place. If I did that shouldn't the motor pretty much slide back in without much problems or am I bound to run into problems either way. So I guess my main question is, is there any thing different with the 82 motor that won't let it go in because its from an auto and a 2 wheel drive. Thanks.


Well, did you get it in yet?

[JOKER]

If you haven't got it yet try flipping the clutch disk. I have put one on wrong side out and it does what you are describing.