View Full Version : pull pin style doors?
gnarly89runner
10-24-2004, 08:55 PM
i have always loved riding in my 4runner with the doors off ,but because of the hassle i rarely do
i was thinking if i could drill out the solid pins and some how put some removeable pins in i would have a easier way to do thing
any ideas or pictures would be great
gnarly89runner
10-29-2004, 09:21 AM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Korrupted
[w/ clevis pins.
what are these? were can you get them
do you bolt or weld
bbagwell
10-29-2004, 04:07 PM
Clevis pin = Cotter Key
The same as the ones that hold the pin for a trailer hitch. You would just use a smaller size.
gnarly89runner
10-30-2004, 10:34 AM
ok thanks , ill see wut i can do :Rockonman
FatAzzRunner
10-30-2004, 09:02 PM
WEll, it is probablly hard to see but the pins I used were hitch pins.
They are sold in different size diameters on the bolt part of it and then the half moon shaped clip that flips down and clips over the end of the bolt.
You can use them on quick release factory doors and tube doors. I use the same pins for both sets of my doors.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/511986_122_full.jpg
gnarly89runner
11-01-2004, 01:33 PM
hey man thanks for the pics
did you fab the doors yourself
FatAzzRunner
11-02-2004, 08:55 PM
Sorry my reply was so slow, I was on days off and didnt have time to get on the computer.
I was busy working and packing to go wheelin this weekend.
Yep, me and a buddy of mine built them.
I will post some other pics.
FatAzzRunner
11-02-2004, 08:58 PM
They are made of 1.75" DOM tubing.
Unpainted, just finished.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/511986_73_full.jpg
Painted up.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/511986_83_full.jpg
FatAzzRunner
11-02-2004, 09:01 PM
Forgot, this is the latch system. I just drilled a hole right into the body of the truck for it to pop in to. I dont care about the body on the rig anymore so basically you just get the pin pulled back far enough to get past the outside of the door opening then let it go and pull the door shut and the spring forces the pin into the hole.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/511986_80_full.jpg
Climb or Slide
11-04-2004, 09:18 AM
I couldn't fit ANY clipping pin in my doors. The 1981-1983 doors have less room for pins... I used some kinda odd pins. they are a hardened 5/32" bolt, with a smaller size threads 3/32", and they have a small round head on them that takes an allen wrench.
I got 4 extra hinges from a junkyard and cut the pins out of ALL 8 hinges (4 for doors, 4 for tubes) with bolt cutters.
I just drop the pins in, and if I'm gonna have them in all winter, I put nuts on the bottom. Here is a pic of the doors I made....
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid145/p9a9f0e7c36d689451c0ac614c35471da/f660df07.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid145/p8ba18e7d3c0c48a3ee42e7b23c435c86/f660df10.jpg
Joey
FatAzzRunner
11-04-2004, 05:33 PM
Did you bend those on a Harbor Freight bender??
Kyron
11-05-2004, 09:21 PM
I tried the pins ....... they rattled and had too much slop for me..
I did this to my hinges....... way easier
Kyron
11-05-2004, 09:22 PM
Not my truck.........
I "stole" both those pictures :Angel:
gnarly89runner
11-06-2004, 07:25 AM
wow guys thanks for all the great ideas/info
around here{chesapeake Va} im one of a few but loyal yota guys , its great to get good useful info :yes:
keep up the awsome site:beer:
Climb or Slide
11-07-2004, 11:08 AM
HELL YEAH harbor feight! $70 for a 12 ton.... Im in college. If it used or cheap, I will buy it.
sparky
11-16-2004, 08:20 AM
having tried two different ways to make my doors removable and still wind proof.
cut the top of the hinge. the upper bolt hole that attaches to the door. then all you have to do is use the bolt on the tops of the hinges and losen those. then to put the door back on just slide the door onto the hinge. tighten it down alittle, close the door to get it lined up again. then tighten the bolts down the rest of the way. it takes about 5 minutes to put the doors on and even less to take them off.
i guess i need to post some pictures though. i'll try that later!
sparky
11-16-2004, 12:58 PM
heres how i made mine.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/692000-692999/692620_27_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/692000-692999/692620_25_full.jpg
MaverickToy81
11-16-2004, 11:02 PM
All I see is red :cuss: X's. Might wanna try again.
Ian
sparky
11-17-2004, 09:17 AM
they show up for me!:kidding:
Wyo.Yoata
03-08-2005, 04:57 PM
i need from the door latch to the lock latch and height from bottom of door to the best point of arm rest and from the TOP door latch to the BOTTOM of the other bolt hole of the bottom latch but over all i need measurements for length height and latch to latch height and what not i would but my yoata is in the shop in pinedale and im going to court to make things right for them puting the wrong engine in it and all that mess from there F#@K UP! but yeah i just want to get started on making things for it so when i get it back i can put it all on it its a 1982\83 toyota 1/2 ton standard cab if that might help for measurements.
Ira.
MaverickToy81
03-09-2005, 08:45 PM
I did my quick release doors today. Its so simple!
Materials:
4 (four) 5/8'' x 3 1/8'' clevis pins
4 (four) Cotter Pins
Hacksaw
Hammer
Chisel Tip Punch
Vice Grips
WD-40
Process:
Take the hinges off the body (Or you could do it on the body, I happened to have extras lying around)
Grease the hinges w/ WD-40 to make sure everything will slide out nicely
Saw the middle of the stock hinge pin
Clip the vice grips on the end of the stock pins and pull them out (they should come out if you greased them w/ WD-40) If not...
Take the chisel tip punch and and put it between the sawed pieces, and tap lightly to loosen the pins
Slide the pins out with use of up/down/out motion of the vicegrips
The 5/8'' pins area perfect fit into the holes. Make sure and try not to bust the copper sleeve in the hinges.
Bolt on, slide pins in and push the cotter pins in to hold everything. I have no problems with door slop and everything lines up fine. It takes me 2 minutes to do everything (on/off).
Final cost: $10.00 and about an hour and a half. (would have been less time, but I made a mistake on the first hinge and had to find a second one in my shed).
PM me w/ any questions
Ian
jacks
05-22-2005, 08:25 PM
This may sound likea stupid question, but how do yuo guys stay street legal with out mirrors after you remove the doors> I was going to remove mine today but I get enough loos form the cops so I need a way to mount a mirror
wa4x4
05-22-2005, 10:38 PM
Just use duct tape, they should stay on. If someone pulls you over just tell them to go get a life and a real job
StarWolf
06-17-2005, 06:04 PM
Ive seen alot of people mount their mirrors on their fenders, just infront of the door, makrsure its visible from the cab tho, all in all if your using the 84+ mirrors they dont look too mad at all, Thats what I was considering doing on my rig.
MaverickToy81
06-17-2005, 06:32 PM
I only run w/ the interior rearview and ive passed numerous sherriffs and state cops and they havent given me any crap. as long as you run at least one, you are fine...
IAN
StarWolf
06-17-2005, 11:18 PM
this is true, in fact in the 70's and some domestic erly 80's cars only had a driverside mirror aling with the rearview mounted in the cab.
jacks
06-18-2005, 09:12 AM
I am just trying to avoid getting puled over, THe cops seem to target my truck because it stands out as abnormal. I think I will mount one to the left fender, good idea!
StarWolf
06-18-2005, 03:45 PM
I am just trying to avoid getting puled over, THe cops seem to target my truck because it stands out as abnormal. I think I will mount one to the left fender, good idea!
Just make sure its visible and comfortible to you from within the cab, you dont wanna accidentaly mount it behind your roof support and outta sight :P
I almost did :D
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