View Full Version : axle positions
yotacool
08-09-2004, 01:53 PM
i would like to move my front axle forward as far as stock perches will allow and the rear back as far as the perches will allow.
how is this done correctly?
Kyron
08-09-2004, 06:33 PM
You can also drill new holes in the perchs in the axles for the center pin to sit in..........
But the "best" way to do it is with diffrent springs and have cross over steering........
Why you want to move the rear anyways?
yotacool
08-10-2004, 06:11 AM
i thought that if i moved the rear backwards it would give me more rear clearance, even though i bobbed my bed.
Kyron
08-10-2004, 08:50 PM
Oh........ ok :)
robrocketanski
08-10-2004, 10:09 PM
i used mazda 2wd rears for my rear springs, mostly so my rears could go up front, but also so i could have the rear axle in the center of the pack. yota rears are split uneven so there is more spring in front of the axle than behind. the mazda's are even so my axle moved back about 5"
yotacool
08-11-2004, 07:13 AM
so you have longer drive lines then?
the cheapest way to move the rear back i would think is to redrill the pin holes on ur leafs. like the other guy said toyotas are offset. we would need to know what leafs u are running currently to help u more but if u ask me the easiest is to redril ur pin holes front and rear.
problem with drilling a pin hole in the front leafs is it ruins ur caster angle and then u need to get ur knuckles cut and turned which is over 100$. if i was going to move my axle back i would redrill the holes or relocate the whole spring back 5 inches . also if u want a better approach angle get a bigger lift or cut ur frame in the back right behind the rear leaf spring hanger and then bob ur bed as close to the mark as possible and ull never hit ur bed on a rock
robrocketanski
08-11-2004, 08:42 AM
my rear shaft is almost the same but i have a crawler too. i also bobbed my bed 16.5" and cut my frame at the end of the shackle hanger.
robrocketanski
08-11-2004, 08:44 AM
here is a side shot, but a bit dark sorry.
yotacool
08-11-2004, 10:41 AM
i am running taco 55in rear springs
so u don't think that it is purposeful to relocate the rear axle back farther if i already have a bobbed bed?
i cut it 17.5 in back and cut the frame.
i thought that it might give me more stability
well moving ur axle back by relocating the springs is a bad idea cuz ur moving ur leaves farther up the frame so ur losing ur lift.
longer wheel base = better traction on some obstacles but bad steering radius.
depends on what ur doing but cutting the frame and bobbing is the best idea so the rear axle is close to stock
yotacool
08-11-2004, 04:31 PM
alright thank you for the input.
i guess i will just leave my rear axle where it is and crawl with my bobbed bed.
booger weldz
08-12-2004, 06:59 PM
Originally posted by AtTiLiA
the cheapest way to move the rear back i would think is to redrill the pin holes on ur leafs. like the other guy said toyotas are offset. we would need to know what leafs u are running currently to help u more but if u ask me the easiest is to redril ur pin holes front and rear.
nice advice! you gonna recommend welding the leaf halves together after it cracks in 2 at the old center pin hole???
i didnt say it was the best or the safest. but im guessing its the cheapest and quickest way to do it. and i know lots of ppl that have there leafs redrilled professionaly buy triple a spring and dont have a problem.
im getting it done tomorow :D
Climb or Slide
08-19-2004, 08:02 AM
When I did my chevies in the rear, I looked at what tires might rub on in the fender wells. The only thing was the gas tank, so I moved my rear axle about 3 inches back, and had a driveline shop lengthen the tube. Now i just have to cut the back of the fenders, not move the gas tank or get a fuel cell. I did it by only mounting the hangers about 7 inches forward from stock hangers(not 11), and put my Johnny joint shakle mounts right behind the stock shakle mounts.
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