Tilting my axle for a better driveline angle

[colbyj]

Im nearing the end of my SAS, and im just about bolting my axle on saturdayish. How far should i tilt it to get the best driveline angle? Is there anything else I should do while im in there?
Thanks

[Kyron]

for the front?? you dont want to "tilt" the front axle because you mess with the steering geomentry, to "tilt" the front axle you have to cut and rotate your knuckles.........

you want the steering arms level or at least the angle of the flange of the axle and T-case to be equal .

[crash]

Originally posted by Kyron
for the front?? you dont want to "tilt" the front axle because you mess with the steering geomentry, to "tilt" the front axle you have to cut and rotate your knuckles.........

you want the steering arms level or at least the angle of the flange of the axle and T-case to be equal .

arms level, umm, no, thats ZERO caster, not what you want...
To have TRUE good steering geometry, you want about 6-7 degrees of caster

Basically get an angle finder and put it on the arm(as long as its flush with the flat portion of the knucle) and rotate the housing till you get 6-7 degrees of positive caster (pointing up forward).
Now, some times you have to compromise, and shoot for a lower caster, but that can have adverse reactions....

[fourwd1]

Originally posted by Kyron
... or at least the angle of the flange of the axle and T-case to be equal .

Only if you're running a non-CV driveshaft in the front.
If you have a CV joint the diff should be pointed up towards the t-case flange, almost a straight line.

But get the caster angle correct first, that's more important.

[ZUK]

Originally posted by colbyj
Im nearing the end of my SAS, and im just about bolting my axle on saturdayish. How far should i tilt it to get the best driveline angle? Is there anything else I should do while im in there?
Thanks

colby---I don't see any pics of it or you didn't say anything about the specifics of your SAS.......If you have a crappy driveline angle than the cheap fix would be 6 degree steel shims. But that might rotate your steering linkage and rub the packs....it will also eliminate your castor. That means it will wander on the road. But if this is a trail-only rig than not such a big deal.
As mentioned, the best way and most labor intensive is to rotate the knuckles and re-do the perches. That way, the pumpkin heads straight for the transfer case and good castor is maintained.

[colbyj]

I don't see any pics of it or you didn't say anything about the specifics of your SAS.......
Sorry, i dont have a digital camera. My axle is from a '79 pickup, and everything is pretty much home made. I dont really understand alot what was said in here (haha) but my dad does. He said thats what we will do, so thanks alot guys!