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View Full Version : Chevy 63 how 2 made easy


pipefitter
08-24-2003, 11:51 PM
If you want chevy 63 in the rear you will need to move the forward spring mount 11 inches forward . If you want to use the stock shackle mount you will need 9 or 10 inch shackles . If you want to move the rear mounts back 4 inches you can use 2 inch drop shackles . If you keep the stock shackle mounts and go with a 9 inch shackle you sure get about a 4 to 5 inch lift . If you move the mount back you get a 3 or 4 inch lift but not as much drop in the springs . You will get the best flex if you keep the stock mounts and a 9 inch shackle . Your angle will be 35 or 40 degrees . And that is a good amount of movement both ways . I would not use a double shackle . I have heard to many bad things about them . You can go to pirate4x4.com in the toy tech sec. and read more about it that . I will post a pic of the new front mounts . And thats 11 inches from center hole to center hole . If you do not want to make them your self you can buy them . Thats what I did . Just as easy and if you get them on sale they are about $20 each . I think I got mine from frontrangeoffraod.com . You will have to do a little grinding to the the mounts and to the bushings . The new mounts I get were a 1/8 of inch smaller than the chevy springs with bushings .

pipefitter
08-25-2003, 12:00 AM
pic of the front mounts .

pipefitter
08-25-2003, 12:11 AM
Ok the rear up front . I going to get mine on as soon as I get the rest of the truck done . Right now I'm running 3 inch lift springs in the front .

Rockcrawlintoy
08-25-2003, 12:25 AM
the dual shackle isnt that bad. u just got to remember that it unloads usually in a downhill off camber situation. the reason i did it is i didnt want to have a 9 inch long shackle and i didnt want to relocate the shackle hanger. but i will tell ya that i am changing to a single shackle with a jonny joint just so the springs stay happy when flexed hard. also u can do a buggie leaf set up too but i recommed some kind of swivel shackle to keep the springs from twisting. i belive Wilson from PBB was running this before he totaled his rig. and it worked well

Drew

Frank300
08-25-2003, 04:37 AM
when using these Chevy rears, did you have to alter or "relocate" any other parts to make this set up work? Will this set up in any way change the angle of the rear end or the driveshaft? Newbie here, sorry for what may sound dumb, just trying to get all my stuff together before starting this swap.

pipefitter
08-25-2003, 04:56 PM
When I did mine I put in some shims that I got with my old lift kit . So yes it will change the angle a little but the more the lift more the angle will change . If you do not want to move the rear mount and don't want to run a 9 inch shackle you can go down to a 6 inch and still work . And as for buggy spring set up . I would not run them . It is to easy to twist them up . I've talked to a few that ran them and all of them said they would not do it again . And to frank300 I would get a long slip on the rear drive shaft .

Frank300
08-26-2003, 05:45 AM
So, how do you know how much the rear diff needs to be moved to accomodate the right angle when using the Chevy rears? Is there a tried and true method?

fourwd1
08-26-2003, 07:11 AM
Bud R at BudBuilt makes some beefy front hangers specifically for Chevy rear applications.

Runner-Man
08-26-2003, 08:09 AM
Originally posted by Frank300
So, how do you know how much the rear diff needs to be moved to accomodate the right angle when using the Chevy rears? Is there a tried and true method?

The easiest way is to part the truck on a level surface and take the drive shaft out. Use a magnetic angle finder to determine the angle on the face of the pinion flange. Then use the angle finder to determine the angle on face of the output shaft flange. These two angles should be the same.

If you don't want to take the drive shaft out: Park the truck on a level surface, then measure from the bottom of the pinion flange (6 o'clock position) to the bottom of the output shaft flange from the transfer case. Then measure from the top of the pinion flange (12 o'clock position) to the top of the output shaft flange. These two measurements should be the same, which will insure that they are parallel.

The magnetic angle finder works best because it is easy to determine the shim angle you'll need, assuming that you need one. When I did my Chevy spring swap, I used a double shackle setup, and have been pretty happy with it. I also didn't have to put in shims, and ended up with only a small amount of lift, which is what I wanted. I also did not use the overload leaf.

Good luck with it!

pitter
08-26-2003, 10:26 PM
i took out the overload as well but used a 2.5" block and a 2" longer shackle. now i have bad vibes after raising my t cases up. pinion is pointed up and it needs to be more flat without a cv which i should have put in:rolleyes: so both angles on both my flanges have to be the same or within a certain amount of degrees?. my rear shaft is a 57.75" long single with about 5" of lift. :( i was thinking of gettin my blocks machined down instead of getting shims. i need my pinnion to drop some.