AllPro Springs...

[allpro yota]

K, heres the deal...My 85' pickup has 3" Downy Springs and a 3" body lift...i know i know i know:( u dont have to tell me...hehe...anyways, i want to put some allpro springs on it and make it an all suspension lift. I have 33" MT's on it right now. If i get the 4" or 5", can i put 35" tires on it or do i have to go with a smaller tire or a bigger tire. Someone told me a while back that he had the 5" allpro springs on his truck and he had 38" tires. Please help me out...Thanks

[Rockcrawlintoy]

the size of tire thing is up to you. i have 5 inches of lift on my truck and i am able to clear 38s. 35s and 5 inch all pro springs will work sweet.

Drew

[allpro yota]

Great, i just didnt want my truck to be all big, and have little donut tires on it....Thanks a lot

[allpro yota]

By the way, do u have the Allpro Springs??? How does it ride on the street and the dirt??? Are u running sway bars, cause with my Downey springs, i dont have any sway bars, and i can out handle little rice rockets on the street around corners.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

no i have toyota rears in the front. i know that the all pro springs are much softer than the downy ones. i have been thinkin about the all pro springs as well. u might wanna think about a sway bar due to the fact of the 3 inch body lift. u actually might wanna cut the body pucks down to 2 inches if the truck is too tall

Drew

[WildYoats]

I run 4" springs and a 2" body with 35's...Just right for me.

[Kyron]

So whats wrong with the body lift??

[TNToy]

Originally posted by WildYoats
I run 4" springs and a 2" body with 35's...Just right for me. Your rig is too high. Mine has a 4" lift and 38.5s. :D

4" AllPro springs will fit 35s just fine without a bodylift. Major trimming is required for 38.5s

Do you have crossover steering? Call AllPro and ask Chris about that if you have stock steering... I don't think the longer ones, which move the axle forward (what I have) will work with factory push-pull steering. But then, any flexy spring with stock steering will break steering arms on the trail. :)

[TNToy]

Originally posted by Kyron
So whats wrong with the body lift?? Three words: Center of Gravity.

I guess I tend to think along the lines of "run the spring you want for ride/flex... and hack the body off until the tires don't hit it". I see bodylifts used 90% of the time where a good bit of cutting on the fenders could have cleared the tires, but without raising the rig any. :)

[Kyron]

Originally posted by TNToy
Three words: Center of Gravity.



The way I see it a body lift keeps the drive train low :rolleyes:

And makes it easier to have real strong sliders......

I have a 3" 4crawler body lift, with a 2" lifted drive train.

Oh your right about the cutting part :D

[allpro yota]

Originally posted by Rockcrawlintoy
no i have toyota rears in the front. i know that the all pro springs are much softer than the downy ones. i have been thinkin about the all pro springs as well. u might wanna think about a sway bar due to the fact of the 3 inch body lift. u actually might wanna cut the body pucks down to 2 inches if the truck is too tall

Drew
I love it without sway bars...its so nice...when i get to a trail or whatever, i never have to disconnect my sway bars, and i dont even need them...like i said, i can outhadle little cars around corners in a 4x toyota...thats pretty good!:D

[Rockcrawlintoy]

just wait till u get soft springs ;)

Drew

[allpro yota]

o yea, i know if i had soft springs, i would need them for sure, but its cool having these Downey springs, dont need to worry about the sway bars.

[soopatoy]

i got the 5.5" all pro lift and clear 37's with SLIGHT fender trimming (you cant even really notice) and it works great

[Tbone]

I run 5 1/2 in. Alcans (nice and Soft) with a 3in. body lift, I'm going to take the bodylift down an 1in. or 2in., center of gravity is so TRUE....that's why I'm taking a few off on the body lift, plus I get a ton of body roll:confused: :confused: With 2 in. body lift and a 4in spring lift you can stuff 37's easy!

[TNToy]

I can relate, TBone. Hell, I don't even run a body lift, just the typical SAS with 4 inch springs with an extened shackle/hanger combination. I think I'm going to try and drop the truck another two inches (but keep the springs) and trim the hell out of the body. Forget about the pontiac commercial, LOWER is better. :D

[JOKER]

Lower is better to a point, because you need to add in the wheel base factor for the breakover. The longer you are the higher you need it for ledges and such. A more lifted longer wheel based will hav less trouble than a low LWB vehicle on a 4' ledge. I feel there is a medium you should shoot for. I have 6.5" to 7" of lift on my 87 LWB truck, 2" of that is body lift. I have no rock sliders and feel the body lift has saved my rocker pannels.

[Jimbo]

I'm runnin' S-10 springs in the rear with an x-rtra leaf up front.Mind you I'm not finished with my rebuild yet,but the fronts work real good and lots of buddys are running te s-10's in the rear.Axle wrap bar is there just in case.

[TNToy]

Originally posted by JOKER
Lower is better to a point, because you need to add in the wheel base factor for the breakover. The longer you are the higher you need it for ledges and such. A more lifted longer wheel based will hav less trouble than a low LWB vehicle on a 4' ledge. I feel there is a medium you should shoot for. I have 6.5" to 7" of lift on my 87 LWB truck, 2" of that is body lift. I have no rock sliders and feel the body lift has saved my rocker pannels.
I agree with you, to a point. Personally, I'm shooting for 4 inches of lift from stock height, and 38.5s. To get this to work on the trails, I'm going to have to cut the floor and raise the drivetrain up to get a perfectly flat belly pan - since I'll be scraping it fairly often - and build some stout rock rails.

To be perfectly honest, though, it's just a pipe dream, since I'll go coils long before frenching the front springs into the frame at the front crossmember. I'd never get around to doing that, to be honest.... talk about a PITA. :D

IMO, dragging on things under the rig isn't bad. The key is something similar to shaving the diffs, where I'm going to try and have nice smooth things to slide on, with no edges or drainplugs to get hung up on. That makes a HUGE difference in how difficult it is to get the rig high centered... the stock T-case crossmember is a damn boat anchor.