Fuel guage?

[Gary]

Hey all. I just replaced my guage cluster with the SR-5 cluster. When I got the new cluster the fuel guage was sitting just below half a tank. I hooked everything up and fuel guage didn't move. Then I unplugged the wires at the fuel tank and it dropped to below empty, when I plugged it back in it rose to a quarter which is how much gas I've got in it. However when I shut the truck off it stays at a quarter of a tank. The old one would drop to the bottom after you shut the truck off. Is the guage in the SR-5 different, does it have a memory or work even with the key off? Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your help. BTW I'm also installing All-pro's rear disc conversion and parking brake, anything I need to watch out for with this swap? Thanks again.

[shuagriz]

The sr-5 gauges are differen't. I got my truck from its original owner who was one of those people who kept records on every thing and so of course he still had the 85 truck and 4 runner owners manual. It says in the manual that the sr-5 gas gauge doesn't drop when you turn the truck off. The manual says "This fuel gauge has a non-return type needle." Pretty cool huh? :cool:
BTW how hard is swapping the gauge cluster? I have the plain boring one in my truck and want to swap for the sr-5.
Well If you or any one else has anymore ?s that I could answer from the owners manual feel free to ask. Hope this helped

-Josh-

[Gary]

Thanks, I was hoping that was it. The swap was easy. Just replace the cluster, everything plugs right in. The only other thing you have to do is replace the oil pressure switch on the engine with an oil pressure sending unit. I bought mine from california mini truck dismantlers, www.calminitruck.com and they sent the sending unit with the guage cluster.

[4Run4Fun]

Swapping the guage cluster from the standard 3 guage to the nicer SR-5 w/tach is really easy. There are a few key points that you need to take heed to first - some are very important!! First of all, you'll need new oil pressire sending unit. These can be purchased from the dealer for about $25. This is necessary beacuse the 3 guage cluster only has a low-oil, idiot-light. That sending unit sends only an on/off signal, the $25 unit sends the signal taht can be used by the actual guage(not light) to display an analog readout of oil pressure. If you neglect to make the sending unit change, then you will roast the oil pressure guage as soon as you turn the ignition key ( this happens b/c idiot lights are supposed to come on at powerup so you can tell if they're working or not). Trust me on this one, the new guage costs $48. Secondly, the fuel guage will work, but if you want the low-fuel warning light to function, you'll need to replace that sending unit as well. All the plugs on the back of the quage cluster are there, even on the cheaper cluster, they just plug into dummy receptacles, so no extra wiring/splicing is necessary. I wanted the milage to match, so I disassembled the cluster and used a small electric motor with a pencil eraser stuck on the end to advance the odometer quickly (tried the drill method I'd heard of, but after 2 days, it had only moved about 2k, and I had to move it over 60k to get it to match). I'm probably the only person in history to roll an odometer FORWARD!!!. I purchased the cluster from a junkyard for $90 complete. I called the dealership, and they didn't sell a complete cluster, but cost over $900 to to purchase each piece individually. Hope this post helps you.

Ryan

[maxxx]

well, since were on the topic i have a question as well. i have a non-sr5 cluster, 87, and my fuel gauge works for the first 5/6 of a tank , then drops to the complete bottom below E. the warning light still works. if anyone knows an easy fix i would be really grateful! thanks

[Bones]

Interesting on the fuel gauge, I would have wondered the same thing when I go to fire mine up soon.

Thanks

[azrael_cervale]

I used the gauges out of an 87 auto in my 88 manual so I still don't have the Battery gauge. I had to move quite a few wires around in the receptacle to get all the gauges to work I would suggest getting gauges from the same year as you have or at least look in the book to make sure all the connections are the same. When I did mine I didn't swap out the Oil sender right away, and now my gauge does change with rpms but it always seems really low. Did I burn it out? Thanks.

[Gary]

Mine sits at the first tick mark at idle and then goes up with the rpm's. Only problem I've really seen since the swap is my temp guage seems off. The old one would run between about a quarter and a half, this one jumps up to halfway when I start it (cold or warm) and then hovers between 1/2 and 3/4. Is this normal? Seems kinda high to me.

[azrael_cervale]

My Oil gauge will sit around 1/2 then when the truck heats up for awhile it will drop to where it doesn't even show at idle and only goes up to about 1/4 when I'm running down the road. My Temp gauge will sit at the bottom till the truck warms up then it goes to half, and if I shut my fan off I can overheat it and it will show on the gauge (Not a good lesson to learn).