chevy shackle woes, this sucks.

[runner wannabe]

Just thought I'd share this anecdote as a warning to those that plan on not using a plumb bob to center their new chevy springs before welding their new spring hangers to the frame. I mounted the front spring hangers 11" forward like the rest of the sheeple, but it wasn't far enough, or I have some extremely ragged-out springs. Very excited, I hooked the toy shackle to the frame, and the chevy shackle to the stock toy. When I let the jack down, the chevy shackle end that connects to the spring was about 3/4" from touching the frame. The chevy spring eye hits the frame driving on pavement. Dammit, I said. So, I'm trying the "excessively long single shackle from the stock hanger" method first. I'm using 2x1.5x.25 angle for my excessively long shackles. If that doesn't work, I'll move the rear spring hanger all the way to the back of the frame, but I want to try everything else before going to that much effort. I guess if my driveshaft ends up too short, I'll just redrill the perches and move the axle 1" forward. But I don't think it will be a problem.

[runner wannabe]

nobody ever replies to MY posts. Im so sad.:(

[Travota_85]

I'm putting my chevies on this weekend. I put the new forward mount about 11 inches forward also. I'm going to run the chevy shackle along the frame and use 7 inch shackles made from 3/8 x 2 flat stock. When I'm done I'll post my results.


PS dual shackle is only there till I get money for a Johnny joint.

[Sean]

what 85runner said should work, i was running a 3in block w/ an 8in(eye-to-eye) shackle on the frame and the stock chevy one still connected to the spring. it netted me about 5-5 1/2 in. it worked great for a while and then i started to noticed a lot of axle wrap so i went ahead and took out the block and switched my shackles. i also added some shims to change my driveshaft angle a bit. cant remember what degree they were. works great now cept my ass is saggin but i just got some 2in full length aal in so once i get some time theyll be goin in. you measurements should be correct, just try a longer shackle on the frame. let me know how it turns out.

[4rnr4evr]

if you are using lift blocks in conjunction w/ youre chevys take the lift blocks out and have the springs re-arched however much youre lift blocks were that should move youre spring eyes a little closer plus stop axle rap i only pay $100. to have my springs re-arched its worth it to stop axle rap plus get rid of hillbilly lift blocks because you will spit the blocks out when you need them the most! LIFT BLOCKS ARE FOR PIZZA DELIVERY TRUCKS TRAILER ********************S AND WANNA BEES

[stock4runner]

double shackles blows ****************************

[Travota_85]

runner wannabe- I got my springs hang and it looks like it is going to turn out pretty good. With the Chevy shackle against the frame it looks like the angle will turn out good. Havent put weight on it yet tho, the ubolt plate I was going to use wouldnt work Im going to have to make some this week at school.

[JOKER]

:D "Plumb bob I don't need no stinken plumb bob." :D

Good tape measure, and a little knowledge of frame alignment.

I tried the double shackle set up first, it sucked. It would unload on hard take-offs. I went to single shackle 9.5 center eye to eye. Yea, I get the "Damn those are big shackles" quite a bit.

I am not running a bump-stop yet, with no frame for the shackle to hit I have not been able to get them flat, however, I have not wheeled with much weight on them though and this is probably why.

http://198.139.121.46/southwestvoodoo/chevyflexcheck/shkle004.JPG

My chevy spring swap (http://198.139.121.46/southwestvoodoo/chevyspringINSTALL.htm)

[runner wannabe]

All that was bad is good again. I went the single long shackle from stock spring hanger method. For bolts, I used the stock chevy bolt at the spring end, and the stock toyota bolt welded to the shackle for the hanger end. I got a length of 1.5x2x.25 angle from the industrial supply place to make shackles from. (I hate that I pay the chump price for steel at those places.) I started out with 16" eye to eye shackles because I was determined not to get them too short. Then I installed them, took the truck off the jacks, evaluated lift, drilled new holes, etc. etc. This went through 5 iterations until I got the shackles short enough to match the front lift. I ended up with about 9"-10" shackles made from the angle. I don't know why more people don't use angle as opposed to 1/2" steel (it only looks a little weird). I'm running 3leaf chevies with overload as the 4th. No block was used. It netted about 4" in the rear, and rides real nice.

LIFT BLOCKS ARE FOR .... AND WANNA BEES See Sig 4rnr4evr:D

[JOKER]

Originally posted by runner wannabe
All that was bad is good again. I went the single long shackle from stock spring hanger method. For bolts, I used the stock chevy bolt at the spring end, and the stock toyota bolt welded to the shackle for the hanger end. I got a length of 1.5x2x.25 angle from the industrial supply place to make shackles from. (I hate that I pay the chump price for steel at those places.) I started out with 16" eye to eye shackles because I was determined not to get them too short. Then I installed them, took the truck off the jacks, evaluated lift, drilled new holes, etc. etc. This went through 5 iterations until I got the shackles short enough to match the front lift. I ended up with about 9"-10" shackles made from the angle. I don't know why more people don't use angle as opposed to 1/2" steel (it only looks a little weird). I'm running 3leaf chevies with overload as the 4th. No block was used. It netted about 4" in the rear, and rides real nice.


Let's see it post some pics.:)

[Piraja]

Originally posted by runner wannabe
nobody ever replies to MY posts. Im so sad.:( :D