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View Full Version : Rod Knocking '91 Truck 4x4


Arlen
04-19-2007, 10:56 AM
Hi, new member here, I'll try to stay in line.

I've search your site a bit but can't really find what I'm after. My truck was dealer diagnosed with a rod knock in 2004. They recommened short block replacement @ $4000-$5000. I didn't want to pay that at the time and now I can't. It's been three years now. I've put a few thousand miles on it, but hardly any in the last 8 months.

My question for you is, as far as engine repair can you give be some options I might consider? Rebuild? Repair failed part? What would be the extent of work involved to repair the engine? I'd like to patch it up in decent running condition and then sell it later this year. Mileage has dropped to about 14 mpg, burns oil too, much more than before.

I've added a front and rear bumper with a winch built by Reunel that have added significant value to the truck, if it were in good running condition, right now though the value is very little. Except for it was my dad's truck so it does have some significant sentamental value - hence why I'm still dealing with it 3 years later.

Any advice? I've considered trying to find a used one with a good engine for cheap, but those are few and far between, it's usually one with a blown engine.

If I were to sell it right now what would you ask for it? '91 truck extra cab, 4x4, good body condition, 170,000 miles, extra heavy duty front and rear bumper, with a knowcking engine.

zig80toy
04-19-2007, 11:22 AM
You forgot to mention what engine your talking about... I'm guessing we're talking about the 3.0L and not the 22RE, but correct me if i'm wrong...

Its hard to give someone advice while considering sentimental value. I have no clue what your dad's truck means to you. But since you have hung on to it for 3 years after you found out it had a rod knock, i'd say you don't really want to get rid of it.
Do you have any desire to drive it?

Arlen
04-19-2007, 11:38 AM
Yes it is the dreaded 3.0!
Forget I said it had sentimental value, I'm doing one of three things, sell it as is, fix it and sell it, or fix it and keep it for a few years.

I only drive it a few times a year right now. Mileage has a lot to do with that.

If I can fix it for cheap, get it back to so better working condition, I'll probably keep it and use it for a while.

zig80toy
04-19-2007, 01:45 PM
Heres a link to another thread, same problem...
http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=13919

From what stump runner said you can have that thing back to normal for less than a grand. If you do plan to keep it however, i would look into doing the 3.4L swap. It will cost more than 1K, thats for sure, but it will be one sweet truck...

It comes down to how mechanically capable are you?
And how much effort do you want to stick into this thing?

stump runner
04-19-2007, 09:45 PM
hey sorry to hear you've got the same problem i did. yah i did fix the motor. it had a mild knock when i bought it which i guessed incorrectly was valve train related. if you are careful, keep stuff fairly clean, and have some tools it isn't super hard.

short story-
drained fluids, made a map for all the hoses, pulled the motor, put it on a stand upside down, pushed the pistons up toward the heads, pulled the crank out, and put every thing back together using assembly grease. i think it was about 200 for gasket kit and 200 for crank kit

some things that brought the bill up to about $1000 were-
clutch kit, timing belt, timing tensioner pulley, timing idler w/ water pipe, and fuel injector cleaning.

a couple quick tips i learned (might be common knowledge for some)-
-put some rubber hose over the rod studs to prevent crank damage during install.
-when reinstalling the motor use a couple of longer bolts in the bell housing as allignment dowels to the trans.
-i changed the oil after a 15 min. warm up to flush any debris that i might not have caught such as grit in oil passages that i didn't take apart.
-with other motors i have pre oiled the motor with an electric drill through the distributor hole, however with the 3.0 the oil pump is crank driven and i could not.

it's tight but you can do the whole thing w/out draining the a/c system or removing the power steering from the truck.

hope this helps. good luck!

p.s. the cheapest wrecking yard motor (unknown condition) i found was a grand so i think i've got a good deal

Arlen
04-20-2007, 11:29 AM
Thanks for you input. You've convinced me, I'm going to pull that thing out and try and fix it.

stump runner
04-21-2007, 10:00 AM
no problem. if you have more questions i'd be glad to try and help. not a trained mechanic, but i've had bad luck trying to find an honest one i can afford. so most of what i know is from asking questions, thinkings through patiently, and experience.

PM me for my e-mail if you'd like