Yes!!! Another problem! wahoo.

[Cr_Racer]

So yep theres another thing buti think it might be a possible easy fix. so im driving down the road yesterday at 55 in 5th gear(cruising) and my truck hic-ups (or sputers) for a split second. then a couple miles down it does it again! well it got worse and worse as i drove it. so i think fuel pump or maybe filter or maybe need to clean the injectors! no biggy! and this morning i start it and its cold and runs fine. But also the truck has be running like i am pulling an anchor and the check engine light comes on after driving it for about 45 minutes only for about 2 minutes then shuts off! and it has been driving like this for like 4 months. and the check engine light for about 4 months also. So shouldnt it be a pump, filter, or injectors??? or maybe all. or maybe spark??? idk. Need some suggestions thanks and sorry for the long story. Dave

[bodo]

What are the codes if any? If the check engine light didn't come on it would sound like shitty gas.

With it running good but lacking power I think you're computer is in limpdick mode because of a troublecode.

I'm thinking o2 sensor, could be wrong though.

[Cr_Racer]

so the O2 sensor you say. well i got a lightbulb on my head right now from that. i had replaced it about 6 months ago but bought the universal one which was stupid and long story short my boss cut the wire and i had to re crimp it and sauder it then tape it. so the o2 is copnnected and saudered but thats the thing its not all one. o yeah and it hassnt done it for about 6 months but in the past my computer used to click often. then it would do it a little and now i havent heard back from it! so yea i dont really no and hey the check engine light could just be a whole other thing too. cuz that came on before the hic-up problem.

[stump runner]

my 89 3.0 did that sort of as my alt. went out. low voltage = lower fuel pressure. low fuel pressure + dirty injectors = sputtering. it was extra bad w/ headlights on.
just one more thing to check. good luck.

[Oatmeal]

The FIRST thing you need to do, is check the trouble codes instead of guessing what it might be......that could get expensive :eek: ---------Hans

[bodo]

The FIRST thing you need to do, is check the trouble codes instead of guessing what it might be......that could get expensive :eek: ---------Hans

X2000

The reason I'm thinking O2 sensor is because that's the only time I've seen the CEL come on for awhile and then go out. I thought mine did that because I gutted the plugged up cat but it was the O2 sensor.

AGAIN CHECK THE CODES and tell us what they say.

[Cr_Racer]

to stump runner. thank you for the suggestion but its not the alternator. and ill check the codes and for shits and gigles ill replace the o2 cuz its not to expensive. but also codes arent gunna tell me if my injectors or fuel filter or pump are bad. its just gunna say what the lcheck engine light is. so ill do the codes n e ways even though the light came on before this problem. ill keep you posted.

[bodo]

to stump runner. thank you for the suggestion but its not the alternator. and ill check the codes and for shits and gigles ill replace the o2 cuz its not to expensive. but also codes arent gunna tell me if my injectors or fuel filter or pump are bad. its just gunna say what the lcheck engine light is. so ill do the codes n e ways even though the light came on before this problem. ill keep you posted.

NO, DON'T JUST REPLACE THE O2 SENSOR. Man check the damn codes before you even go to the parts store, that's why they put a freaking check engine light there to begin with. You don't want to throw parts at the thing that don't need replacing so start with the damn codes. Maybe you don't know this or maybe you do but just because the light is not lit up all the time doesn't mean you don't have a troublecode. If you don't know how to check the codes just say so, we'll tell you how and you don't need a scanner as a matter of fact all you need is a paperclip.

Oh yeah, I don't know what you consider expensive but O2 sensors rate pretty close to the top of the things I would rather not spend money on if I don't have to, they fall right behind ignitors, knocksensors, and the TPS.

[Cr_Racer]

no, i do no how to check codes and yea im not gunna replace the sensor cuz that wouldnt be an extremely smart decision on my part to put money into something else when i could just put it into the problem and yea i no if the check engine light comes on at all then there is a problem. maybe not as big as no oil in the truck but there is and yea that might have been a dumb comment on my part. n e ways though i am gunna check the codes this weekend for the light and for the gas problem (if it isnt the codes) im gunna get a new filter cuz when i start the truck and let it idle for about 5 minutes or so and when i floor it it hesitates bad. not just the normal little gasp for gas i mean it will sit there wanting to die and almost die for a good 4 to 6 seconds until it picks back up. and bodo i understand where your coming from about the o2 sensor. it would be dumb of me. n e ways thanbk for the input and ill jeep you posted. Dave

[mike9900]

Oh yeah, I don't know what you consider expensive but O2 sensors rate pretty close to the top of the things I would rather not spend money on if I don't have to, they fall right behind ignitors, knocksensors, and the TPS.

don't forget altenator they aren't too fun either :D


If you don't know how to check the codes just say so, we'll tell you how and you don't need a scanner as a matter of fact all you need is a paperclip.


is there a tutorial on this sounds interesting to me a paperclip :D I am sorta green behind the ears about car stuff but I lover learning and am about to start working on my truck.

It could be the 02 sensor if he is saying he soldered/taped it on it could be loosing connection for just a bit and then regaining the connection causing the little hic up/sputter couldn't it?

[bodo]

don't forget altenator they aren't too fun either :D



is there a tutorial on this sounds interesting to me a paperclip :D I am sorta green behind the ears about car stuff but I lover learning and am about to start working on my truck.

It could be the 02 sensor if he is saying he soldered/taped it on it could be loosing connection for just a bit and then regaining the connection causing the little hic up/sputter couldn't it?

All you need to check codes on any 84 to 95 22r series motor is a paperclip. You just short TE1 and E1 and count how many times the CEL blinks....

Search this site

Yeah that alternator left a nice gash in my finger when I replced it on the side of the road. I can touch the scar and the end of my finger tingles.

[Cr_Racer]

i have a 22re. Fuel injected. but yea so i started looking at the fuel injectors and on the injector closest to the firewall which i think is #1 piston it haseither oil or gas around and drewling down it a little. the rest are clean. and this is with me just looking at the motor i didnt take n e thing apart. but you no what honestly ill just tell you how it gows this weekend when i can start eliminatring things it COULD be.

[Cr_Racer]

Ok so here it is. I managed to replace the fuel filter which wasnt to hard and then get it running. and it ran better but only by a tiny bit and the problem still persists. so i thot to myself if it isnt a fuel thing maybe it air, so i looked for a leak and the first hose i looked at (forgot what its called) which is the hose from the throttle body to the mass air flow sensro was ripped(the little s one) and it already has electrical tape and duct tape from the past. so i go to take it off and manage to rip it all the way around cuz its so crusty. so now i go to kragen and buy that slinky duckting hose. the light weight hose and duct tape it and hose clap it to my truck and no how to hope to god there will be a 22re at pick n pull. o and the check engine light still comes on and sometimes it will run beautiful and then out of no where like shit. shit means no power at all. i think ill check the codes.

[bodo]

Ok so here it is. I managed to replace the fuel filter which wasnt to hard and then get it running. and it ran better but only by a tiny bit and the problem still persists. so i thot to myself if it isnt a fuel thing maybe it air, so i looked for a leak and the first hose i looked at (forgot what its called) which is the hose from the throttle body to the mass air flow sensro was ripped(the little s one) and it already has electrical tape and duct tape from the past. so i go to take it off and manage to rip it all the way around cuz its so crusty. so now i go to kragen and buy that slinky duckting hose. the light weight hose and duct tape it and hose clap it to my truck and no how to hope to god there will be a 22re at pick n pull. o and the check engine light still comes on and sometimes it will run beautiful and then out of no where like shit. shit means no power at all. i think ill check the codes.

I'm having flashbacks of COOLHAND LUKE. "What we've got here is a failure to communicate, some men you just can't reach, so you get what we had here last week which is the way he wants it, well he gets it."

For some of you guys on up to about the age of 28 or so that's the intro to Guns N' Roses Use Your Illusion 2, track 1. OH HELL NEVERMIND I'M DONE.

[Cr_Racer]

ok im back. so i checked the codes. and its #5 and #7 in the book which i forgot what they named it but it has to do with air fuel mixure which i figured. i no the spark plugs rotor cap and wires are good. i also now the fuel filter and pump are good. the only weird thing bout the whole situation is that it runs shitty until i drive it for 5 minutes keeping it in the power band as much as possible but then again even on the freeway in 4th gear at 60 it'll somtimes sputer. as in 20 times in 10 minutes of constant freeway speed. so what it could be the distributor? im jus stuck cuz somtimes it works perfect. sometimes meaning 25% of the time. thanks dave

[bodo]

I would focus on code 7 which is the TPS and this seems to be the big evil on injected motors. That one has me stumped as to why it would come on and go out.

I would go to the dealer and spend about $7.00 for two TB gaskets and check the TPS off the motor. While your at it find the right pitch/length allen head screws with lockwashers and substitute those for the stock ones.

The reason I tell you to get two TB gaskets is because your stock TPS might just be out of adjustment and is easier to adjust off the motor. If it turns out that the sensor is bad you can put it back together till you can order another sensor and try again with the second gasket.

I will admit one of my flaws here for all the world to read, I can adjust the TPS on a friends 85 EFI motor but mine throws a code after 2 weeks or so. It might be because he's running a Toyota sensor and I'm running some POS that I got from O'reillys so just store that in the back of your mind.

[Cr_Racer]

looks like im back! yea so n e ways i bought a throttlebody and the tps.(it came in one at TAP) and put it on and still same problem. so im geussing the O2 sensor. but it'll idle fine till i give it throttle so hmm.

[Cr_Racer]

it could just need adjustment which ill read up on and do cuz i still have a fealing that O2 sensor isnt the problem cuz its so drastic.

[bodo]

How much did TAP rape you for? I think the largest thread on pirate was about TAP and how they screw you, even had an employee posing as the owner that got owned.

[Oatmeal]

it could just need adjustment which ill read up on and do cuz i still have a fealing that O2 sensor isnt the problem cuz its so drastic.
You're going to need an ohm meter and a set of feeler gauges but, if you had those in the first place you would have checked your original TPS. Dude, you need to check things out instead of randomly changing parts and wasting money :rolleyes: . You might also want to check fuel pressure and/or voltage at the pump--------Hans

[bodo]

You're going to need an ohm meter and a set of feeler gauges but, if you had those in the first place you would have checked your original TPS. Dude, you need to check things out instead of randomly changing parts and wasting money :rolleyes: . You might also want to check fuel pressure and/or voltage at the pump--------Hans

I'm shaking my head and wondering why I bothered with this after post 14. Some men you just can't reach.

[Cr_Racer]

yea i geuss they raped me for 75 bux for the throttle body and tps. but it runs like it has a blown head gasket but i no it doesnt have one cuz there is only 30,000 miles on the new head/ rebuild. i can return the part for credit and i no ill use the credit in the futre for something. i have a 6 month return policy on it!

[Cr_Racer]

does n e one no of a good website on imformation on how to check the Mass Air flow sensor? the website that was givin to me for the tps check was awesome and i am looking for something like that! thanks dave!

[Oatmeal]

does n e one no of a good website on imformation on how to check the Mass Air flow sensor? the website that was givin to me for the tps check was awesome and i am looking for something like that! thanks dave!You need to pick yourself up a good service manual, factory is the best but, in lieu of a factory manual, Bentley is good---------Hans

[Cr_Racer]

i have one and ill look through it thank you.

[Cr_Racer]

doin a fuel pump vacuum check tomarow. if thats it im gunna be irritated cuz thats what i thot it was but nooo the codes told me otherwise so o well. If you guys care or arent already sick of me.