View Full Version : 1980 4x4
marshall m.
04-08-2007, 08:30 PM
hey im new to the forum. wondering if it would be worth my while to turn a toyota 4x4 1980 into a everyday driver. the truck is currently my fathers and was his everyday driver for 22 years. it would be for getting to work and school and muddin on weekends. the clutch is starting to slip and the engine is very worn. i would need to address those and basicly redo all of the interior. The truck would be free, and i have 6 lug 15" x 8 rims i could put on it, or trade my friend for his 15x10s with bfg at tires on..
thanks for your time ask for more info ill try to get some pics up
take care, marshall
toy power
04-08-2007, 09:00 PM
i don't see why not unless there is some extreme body or frame damage. i think you would have a 20r? a 4 banger with a manual tranny equals money in the bank with fuel as expensive as it is. if you are a mechanic you could go through that motor and clutch for a little over a grand. 1st gens are disappearing fast, it would be nice to know one more is staying on the road.
marshall m.
04-08-2007, 09:04 PM
I currently drive a 96' Jeep Cheroke 2WD 2 Door but deffinatly want to get into a 4x4 Toyota. Everything is good on it, maybe a little worn. I know for sure the engine is very worn and the clutch is just starting to slip. I have a few friends that are capable mechanics and have power tools, mechine tools, ect. Thanks.
stump runner
04-08-2007, 09:43 PM
don't expect a power house
i'd start w/ compression check then a clutch. if it's starting to slip it will get worse fast. next i'd strip the interior it it would see much mud at all. if dad drove it for 22 years he must have taken care of it and free is a good price if you can afford all the extras. keep it simple for a reliable daily driver.
marshall m.
04-08-2007, 10:05 PM
so basicly your saying if i rebuild it and resurface/replace clutch its not going to be doing any mudin anytime soon? would i be better of just not mudding and keeping jeep?
bbagwell
04-08-2007, 10:10 PM
I would replace the clutch, and run it until the motor blows. You can find a used motor pretty cheap, or have someone help you rebuild it. Do not keep the Jeep, once you wheel the yota you will never understand the Jeep thing again :redspotda .
Here is a pic of my first generation.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/bbagwell/P1010242.jpg
fourwd1
04-09-2007, 07:11 AM
If you want to use it as a DD and wheeling vehicle you will need to do some work on it, it's 27 yrs old afterall.
Clutch first, obviously, then whatever comes up.
If the motor goes you can replace the 20 w/a used 22R for a little more power.
The 8" rims will be fine.
marshall m.
04-09-2007, 08:13 AM
thanks alot everybody. the only real problem is keeping trasportation at all times. im not sure if i can have 2 trucks here. my paretns have been really annoying as far as diong anything to the jeep, even a stereo =\ so having this yota would really help. i am aloud to sell the jeep but i have to have transportation 24/7. thanks again.
marshall
zig80toy
04-09-2007, 08:30 AM
convince your parents you need both, at least for a while. Start fixing up your toyota while you can still get around in the cherokee. We would be lying to ya if we said the 1980 toyota would make just as good a daily driver as your 96 cherokee. If the question is, should i be wheeling my FREE straight axle toyota 4x4? i think you already know the answer to that... It would just be nice to wheel/modify/fix your wheeling rig while you got something else to drive...
marshall m.
04-09-2007, 03:51 PM
if i can convince them to let me keep both for a while then it would work. get the yota in driving condition and then sell the jeep which i dont know the value, but get some money for the yota. i have 33" x 10" rims with BFGs that would go right on and we can flip the axles. im not sure about what all i can do with my amazing minum wadge job. thanks again.
stump runner
04-12-2007, 08:18 PM
it's a tough decision to make (and i'm guilty myself) but hard wheeling your only ride is like russian roulette. eventualy somthing breaks. then you need a back up plan already in place, or else you end up skipping work to hitch hike to the parts depot and spending all the money you didn't have to pull an all nighter fixing your daily driver to drive to the crumby job you lost while you were trying to fix your ride.
take your friends mudding with you so when your truck breaks you can borrow their car.
or better, take your friends car wheeling and when you break it you still have your truck to drive to work.
so many options!
Le_Roi
04-19-2007, 03:51 PM
yea i had to deal with that choice all the time when i was in high school me and my parents had an undersatnding if it broke of natural causes theyed pay to fix it but if i broke it i had to pay for it ... i alwasy took the hard road with mine mainly becasue my brother had a 76 k5 blazer which he bragged about all the time so i had to prove him wrong as much as possible lol .... one time i even hooked chains with him (84 stock 4runner VS 76 k5 blazer) it was interesting but all that a side these toys are tuffer then u think as long as u dont drown it u should be fine lol good luck with the parents i have only been out on my own for like 2 years so i understand what ur going through
YotaGuy
04-27-2007, 06:14 AM
stick to the Toy....way cheaper to fix up and to keep running....after all JEEP stands for Just Empty Every Pocket
follow this link to see my 80 PU short box
http://gregsphotogs.spaces.live.com/PersonalSpace.aspx?_c02_owner=1&wa=wsignin1.0
1980 Toyota Short Box Pick Up
1981 22R engine
1988 W56 Tranny 5SP
1979 t-case
1980 axels with 4.10 gears, open diffs
8 inch susp lift
Custom 4 inch drop shackles
2 inch body lift
Rear traction bars
Header with 2 1/4 inch free flow exhaust
Tilt steering, int. wipers, ps, pb, sun visor.
Cap, tool box, roll bar, spare engine, spare tranny, spare t-case, spare clutch
Spare set of doors, fenders, hood, dash, grill and tailgate
4- 36X14.50firestones on steel rims
4- 33X9.50 BF MT’s on chrome rims
Draglink and tie rod ends were changed last year.
Over $3000 in new parts, ex: New pads, rotors, wheel studs, complete e-brake system, calipers, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, u-joints front and rear, custom rear driveshaft, rear shackles, fuel filter, front axel bearings, many more parts.
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