ring and pinion packages

[clint marsh]

I want a r&p set with locker. I have seen package deals here and there. I am on a budget and thinking Aussie locker based on what I've picked up from this forum. I will be open in the front and do drive street daily. I am hoping for a master install kit with everything. Any suggestions?

[fenderbmxer86]

Aussie lockers are way better than lockrights and the owner is a really nice guy. They havent had one break yet. (last time i talked to him) and he said if it does he will warrenty it.

Are you installing the gears yourself? Cause if not that an extra couple hundred bucks.

Its always easier to "Pull" your self up somthing than "Push" therefore the front being locked is a better option if your axle is built but most likley its not so just throw the sucker in the rear until your front axle has some longfields in it than just swap the third members and weld the rear. :redspotda

[ryan]

If you are on a budget like me, than the longfields are too much. I just installed an Aussie last week in the front, and welded my stock birfs for added strength.

[fenderbmxer86]

If you are on a budget like me, than the longfields are too much. I just installed an Aussie last week in the front, and welded my stock birfs for added strength.

:help: Please explain.

[Oatmeal]

I bought Superiors (very good quality!) from here: http://drivetraindirect.com/l_specials_index.htm I have an '85 (solid axles front and rear) and they gave me the same deal-------Hans

[subliminaltrips]

if you daily drive you might be better off with an arb air locker in the rear or an e locker from the taco. but im betting thats out of your budget like it is mine too. i just bought a complete 3rd member with the detroit soft locker from trail gear. they warranty them for 1 year and i think its the way to go as far as 3rds go.its complete with either 4.88 or 5.29 gears. my front is open right now but i may drop an aussie in the front once i get the truck up to par a little more. some longs would be nice!!


yea im curious how you welded your birfs?? did you do a "martack"??

[muddy_yota_guy]

check with performanceoffraodcenter.com, i think they still have a special goin on and yeah i'd like to hear about the diy welding of the birfs

[clint marsh]

Looks like I could get R&ps from trail gear for around 280$
Aussie locker for 240$
520$ total parts
I will look into prices for installation.
I could buy a complete third w/ 5.29s and detroit for 949$. I would still need to purchase r&p for the front. That would also need installed labor cost for front. This is one of the few things I don't feel comfortable taking on myself. I have heard a lot of horror stories where people have ended up replacing stuff three or four times before it is right. For those of you who have done it. How did it work out? was it difficult?

[clint marsh]

check with performanceoffraodcenter.com, i think they still have a special goin on and yeah i'd like to hear about the diy welding of the birfs

Awesome. 400$ for 5.29s fornt and rear w/ master install kit. I will add an aussie and call it good. Checking with local shops on install costs. Anyone know about welding birfs?

[ryan]

I just found that some of you were questioning about the welded birfs. For some reason it went to my spam folder, or else I would have responded sooner. You need some schedule 40 pipe that is the same size as the birf, I believe its 3 inch. Then cut two rings about 1/4 inch thick. These rings will be welded to the birf useing welding rods for high tempered steel (90-18 MH4R is what we used). Before you weld them on, make sure you have cleaned them out really well you else you will have a nice grease fire to deal with. Also, grind down the edge of the ring a little that will be welded to the birf. This forms a nice groove between the ring and birf to lay down a nice bead. Now that your birf is clean, and the ring it ready to go on, have the welder already to go, because now you have to heat up your birf realy hot befor you weld you else you will be doing the opposite of strengthning and making the birf brittle. I don't know how hot to get it, but I do know that red hot is to hot. At this point, it will be much easier with two people (preferrably a good stick welder). Now that the birf is super hot, place the ring on the birf (ginded side touching the birf) and have some one hold it flush and center with a board or something and put four tacks around it. Now one person needs to rotate the birf while the other welds it on. I forgot to tell you to put the birf in a pipe in a vise, this makes it easier to rotate while heating and welding. Now chip, gind, fill any holes, and make sure you grind the ring flat where the birf is flat. Take a flaper wheel to it and make it preaty. Then rotate the joint all around to break of any burrs that might have fallen in. Before you pack it full of grease, make sure it will fits into the houseing. You might need to round the edges to fit. Put a few bolts in and tighten, then make sure you can still rotate your drive line. When it fits, pull it all out and clean it out really well to get all the metal shavings out, pack it and you are ready to go.
I sure hope I made sense. If I do it again, which I need to for my spares, I will take pictures for better explaning.

[Longfield]

Yes welding the ring does keep the bell from spliting. And you have to heat treat the cage and race because they are to hard and brittle that is why they blow up so easy. This brings the rock well hardnes down a little. But if you heat it to much it will be to soft and wear faster. We did quit welding the rings on them because when you turn sharp the ball will jam against the ring and cause the inner cage an race to break or break the ring off. Hope this helps.