22 re questions

[spacoli]

Hi guys, great forum here.

I'm a new owner of a 93 pick up that I just put a 100,000 mile used engine in. Before I put the engine in, I had a mechanic install a new timing set with new cover, new oil pump, new water pump, all new gaskets that could possibly leak, new fuel filter, plugs, ect.

My questions has to do with the idle and valve noise.

The idle is really low, almost seems like it's going to stall when I come to a stop. It runs a little sluggish or rough at lower RPM and then picks up a runs good.

I checked the timing and it seem good other than it jumps slightly. It doesn't stay steady at 5 degree.

I have read that these engines can be a little noisy (lifter tapping) but I think mine is too noisy.

I have opened up the valve cover for my first ever valve adjustment.

I rotated the engine till the valve closed fully then adjust the intake to 8. It seemed like they all needed tightened other than the last. Still noisy.
Now I have read that people adjust theirs 7, so I will probably go back in and readjust.
Now for the exhaust I could not get my 12 feeler gauge in, so I just left them alone. Plus I have read that people adjust theirs 11. Should I go back in and adjust the exhaust to 11?

Any thoughts or in put would be helpful on these questions.

[22REkid]

From my experence 8 and 12 is not enough and 7 and 11 works best. One thing that people do is adjust them cold which is a no no. They must be adjusted at normal operating temperature. As far a valve train noise, it is normal and most likely will never go away. Depending on the parts the mechanic used, louder than normal clattering can be caused by the timing chain. I have found that aftermarket timing chains are just plain noisy. Stock Toyota chains and tentioners for whatever reason are quiter than anything I have ever used. Do you know if the head was ever resurfaced? Sometimes they take too much off resulting in a timing chain that will never be quiet. The idle problem and miss that you are talking about could be because of a tight valve(s) because you said you couldn't get the feeler gauge at 12 on one of the exhaust valves. I would set them all to 7 and 11 and see if that helps anything first. That is the best place to start.

[spacoli]

Thanks for your reply, The timing set was bought from engbldr.com, I read that those parts a pretty good quality. I'm hoping the exhaust valve adjustment will do something for the idle.

Now that I have done it once, I will be a little more comfortable doing it.

How much resitance should you have on your feeler gauge? Fairly snug or easily to get it in and out?

Thanks again

[ovrrdrive]

Here is Ted's (engnbldr) comments on valve lash...


">>>*I have always felt that .008" and .012" was a shade on the loose side. These engines do run noisy, after all the design is mechanical.
By listening closely, one will realize the click sound is at 1/4 of engine rotation, a mechanic's stethescope has demonstrated to me that it is the exhaust side that we hear.

The stock cam profile will accept .008" and .010" and this can help to ease the sound. But if the adjuster screw ends are worn, moving them exposes a different area, and the noise may actually increase at a closer setting.
Plus if worn, it is very easy to get a false reading since the feeler will read the widest point rather than the closest.
Trying to use "drag" as a guideline is very hard to do, these engines only have 60# seat tension in the spring, so a snug drag may actually be zero lash unless one has very good hands.
If the camshaft profile is other than stock, the lash setting may well be different than factory settings due to the lobe shape.

We suggest .007" intake and .009" exhaust on all of our designs for quietest operation, and we have even set the stock cam at that reading with no harm.

But by all means, pull the adjuster screws and check the ends for wear. If it is present, you will never really get the settings accurate....*EB "



http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=899759&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=1

In my truck I have a Crane Cam and they actually recommend .008/.010 on their cams and that is what I set mine to. It is the quietest the valvetrain has ever been and I bought the truck new.

It's also a pretty common practice to set the valves cold .001 tighter than you want them to be hot and it ends up being dead on when the engine warms up. It's still a good idea to check them after you warm the engine up though as it isn't fool proof. I set mine to .007/.009 cold and after I put about 20 miles on the engine I checked them hot and they were spot on at .008/.010.

Try them at .008/.010 and see if it quietens them down...

[bodo]

When you said your timing was at 5 degrees, was that with the jumper in? If that was without the jumper your timing is way retarded. I've never set my timing without the jumper but I have heard of people setting them to 12 degrees with no jumper.

[spacoli]

When you said your timing was at 5 degrees, was that with the jumper in? If that was without the jumper your timing is way retarded. I've never set my timing without the jumper but I have heard of people setting them to 12 degrees with no jumper.

I'm sorry, I'm no mechanic, I don't know what a jumper is? Can you explain?

Thanks

Edit: I did look under the hood where all the engine tune up info is and I seen where it said with data link connector short circuted. Is this the jumper you talked about?

[bodo]

If you look on the side of the fuse panel under the hood you'll see a little plastic box that says diagnosis on the cover. Open that up and there's a diagram in the top of the cover you need to short T and E1 with a paperclip or jumper to set your timing to 5 degrees. Your idle should fall when you short those terminals if the TPS is in adjustment. This is the correct procedure for timing these motors and I'll bet when you do it your timing will be at like 0 making your truck more gutless then it is normally. This is also how you check for trouble codes by counting how many times the check engine light flashes with those two shorted and the key on but not started.

[spacoli]

Thanks I will check it out. That is probably why my idle is so low?

[spacoli]

I reset the timing with the jumper installed, it was around 5* infront of the 5*mark, so I guess it was around 0. Not sure what it was before when I had started this thread, because I adjusted it to increase the idle without a timing light.

I had set the intake valves to 7 and the exhaust to 10. I was going by memory of what I had read on this thread, seems like engbldr recommed 8 and 9 and others have suggested 7 and 11.

The exhaust valves were tight with no noticable gap at all. I'm hoping this will take car of the hesitation at lower rpms. One of the mechanics said there was a slight miss and said readjusting the valves might take care of it. I had another guy listen to it after adjusting and he said he did not here a miss.