grumsey1
03-18-2006, 08:23 PM
Hi, guys...new to the site just replaced the head gasket on my 85 Toyota Extra Cab 4X4 EFI model. I would like to know if I can eliminate the EGR and any other components from the engine such as.
There are two units that bolt to the valve cover that have small vacuum hoses on them and also plug into the wiring harness. When I removed the head, A typical I didn't mark where each vacuum hose went. I have a factory service manual and it shows where the EGR hose's hook up and I made the change from where they had been run to. I'm left with four small vacuum hoses off those units that bolt to the valve cover and no idea where they go, and can’t find a place where they would, it doesn’t show it in my manual, or if it does I'm not seeing it.
I would like to eliminate anything off the engine and still have it run right. I plan on putting a header on it in time and better flowing muffler to improve the gas mileage and performance. I live outside of Portland and there are no DEQ issues to contend with.
Any suggestions would be helpful, it runs now, but has a slight miss and doesn’t idle like it did before the head gasket blew, it sounds good when the RPMs are up to about 3000. I sprayed carburetor cleaner around to see if I had a vacuum leak and there was no change in the way the engine idled. There was water down in the back two cylinders; I could see the gasket blew between the last two cylinders. Since the engine was rebuilt once and bored 30 over, I had a problem with a snap ring working its way out of the piston and the risk pin slapped against the cylinder wall, tore it down, showed the machine shop the problem, and they did the work and replaced the parts and charged me less then $175.00. Now it’s bored 40 over, not an issue as these blocks are pretty thick I was told.
Since they shaved the head I have to use an extra thick head gasket, my brother reassembled the block the second time and didn't follow the directions when it came to installing the head gasket, that's why it blew with less then 4000 miles on it. My machinist said to let it set over night once the head bolts are torque down and then run it up to operating temp. the following day. Let it cool down, back the head bolts off a bit and re-torque the head bolts again which I did this time. The directions stated the same thing except the part about letting it sit over night. I adjusted the valves I think it was .012 on the exhaust and .008 on the intake, would have to check the book again.
So that’s the history of the engine, I moved the distributor, no change, the spark plugs looked good but then one may be fouled where the head gasket blew, but then it sounds like all four cylinders are firing. Again, if I can make some changes and eliminate anything not need please let me know.
Thanks,
Glen D Rumsey
The Dalles, Oregon 97058
541-296-3970
There are two units that bolt to the valve cover that have small vacuum hoses on them and also plug into the wiring harness. When I removed the head, A typical I didn't mark where each vacuum hose went. I have a factory service manual and it shows where the EGR hose's hook up and I made the change from where they had been run to. I'm left with four small vacuum hoses off those units that bolt to the valve cover and no idea where they go, and can’t find a place where they would, it doesn’t show it in my manual, or if it does I'm not seeing it.
I would like to eliminate anything off the engine and still have it run right. I plan on putting a header on it in time and better flowing muffler to improve the gas mileage and performance. I live outside of Portland and there are no DEQ issues to contend with.
Any suggestions would be helpful, it runs now, but has a slight miss and doesn’t idle like it did before the head gasket blew, it sounds good when the RPMs are up to about 3000. I sprayed carburetor cleaner around to see if I had a vacuum leak and there was no change in the way the engine idled. There was water down in the back two cylinders; I could see the gasket blew between the last two cylinders. Since the engine was rebuilt once and bored 30 over, I had a problem with a snap ring working its way out of the piston and the risk pin slapped against the cylinder wall, tore it down, showed the machine shop the problem, and they did the work and replaced the parts and charged me less then $175.00. Now it’s bored 40 over, not an issue as these blocks are pretty thick I was told.
Since they shaved the head I have to use an extra thick head gasket, my brother reassembled the block the second time and didn't follow the directions when it came to installing the head gasket, that's why it blew with less then 4000 miles on it. My machinist said to let it set over night once the head bolts are torque down and then run it up to operating temp. the following day. Let it cool down, back the head bolts off a bit and re-torque the head bolts again which I did this time. The directions stated the same thing except the part about letting it sit over night. I adjusted the valves I think it was .012 on the exhaust and .008 on the intake, would have to check the book again.
So that’s the history of the engine, I moved the distributor, no change, the spark plugs looked good but then one may be fouled where the head gasket blew, but then it sounds like all four cylinders are firing. Again, if I can make some changes and eliminate anything not need please let me know.
Thanks,
Glen D Rumsey
The Dalles, Oregon 97058
541-296-3970