85 22re overheating

[bandit 22re]

there is a small L shaped heater hose that goes down to the engine head area. if your looking into the hood its on the left side kinda under the EFI shit. i blew that hose, and trying to find one to fit in there was a bitch. i did get a hose on there from auto zone, but i think it might be causeing it to overheat becuz its restricting the water flow. before my temp stick would heat up pretty normaly as my other cars. but now i drive it for a while and it takes a longer time before it gets to the half way mark. but the weird thing is my heater works alot faster now. i can drive like 3.5 blocks in 10 degree weather and start to feel heat through the vent. and the gauge will not move a cm. before i wouldnt start to feel heat untill my temp gauge started moving up; at least off the C resting pin. but today i was driving at 30 mph in 3rd gear and it started climbing all the way up to H. i turned the heat on quick and it went back to half way. but 10 minutes before that i was doing 80 on the hwy with my heaters off and it was fine. its too unpredictable for me and i need to fix this. i also have to add water before each trip, i think most of it spills out from the over flow when its overheating, or possibly gets burned up. there is a little oil in the water its always brown. not enough to hurt it cuz it pretty much was always that color. and on top of my oil cap it has the signs of water in the oil. but if u look at the dip stick its fine. it also has a rough idle and burns about a quart of oil every 800-1000 miles. i have also seen white smoke come out of the tail pipe at start up. only happens once in a blue moon. seen it 2-3 times.. how important is the water flow from the L shaped hose?

[fourwd1]

Don't know about L hose, but if you're overheating, using water, have signs of oil and coolant mixing, and see white smoke, you probably have a bad head gasket or worse.

[22REkid]

I agree with fourwd1. Whith all of those things that you listed, I would say it's a blown head gasket. Just about the worst thing you can do to a 22R/RE is overheat them. Head gaskets are a common issue and here is the reason why: The block is made of cast iron and the cyl. head is made of aluminum. They expand and contract at different temperatures constantly putting a lot of stress on the head gasket itself. Loss of coolant, loss of oil, water in the oil, misfiring ect... all these things tell me that the head gasket at the very least is blown, I would also expect a cracked cyl. head. Take it to a shop and have it block tested, this test will determine if there is exhaust emmissions in the cooling system, that means blown HG or cracked head.

[toyotajunk2]

I had the same problem with my 85' we fixed the head gasket and it still was overheating and getting oil in my coolant and vice-versa. It actually turned out to be a pin hole in my timing chain cover. The guides broke and the chain wore a groove into the cover and let water in and out. not a big issue but a pain to figure out. Look at both the head gasket and the timing chain cover. Those plastic guides have a knack for breaking after awhile. Go get some metal ones!

[fourwd1]

Yeah, that's another common cause for oil/water mix, etc. on 22Rs.
How many miles on the TC ?

[toyotajunk2]

I bought mine last year with a blown head gasket at 165,000 the timing chain went out at about 166,000. The guides broke before, and wore the groove before I bought it. I just didn't think of it till after we put the whole engine back together. If it is a timing cover its a easy fix, Just get it welded to cover the hole. Cost me about $.10! beats a blown head gasket!

[22REkid]

I had the same problem with my 85' we fixed the head gasket and it still was overheating and getting oil in my coolant and vice-versa. It actually turned out to be a pin hole in my timing chain cover. The guides broke and the chain wore a groove into the cover and let water in and out. not a big issue but a pain to figure out. Look at both the head gasket and the timing chain cover. Those plastic guides have a knack for breaking after awhile. Go get some metal ones!

Yes, that is a common occurance with the 22R series engines but that does not explain the misfire. The only way they will misfire is 1. Bad plug or plug wire 2. Water/oil in combustion chamber getting the plug wet. That would pretty much mean that the HG is blown or there is a crack in the head to get water or oil into the combustion chamber.

[toyotajunk2]

I don't think he mentioned a missfire? but like I said It is probably a blown head gasket or A hole in your timing Chain cover. Simple way to rule out the timing chain is take over valve cover and look to see if your guide is still in tact. if it is broken. Check out the cover. If not go with the head gasket.

[22REkid]

it also has a rough idle and burns about a quart of oil every 800-1000 miles. i have also seen white smoke come out of the tail pipe at start up. only happens once in a blue moon. seen it 2-3 times

He didn't say it had a misfire but the rough idle thing. Most likely a misfire.

[c0ma]

the easist way to estimate damage on a automobile is to look at worst posable situation cause 99% time thats what its gonna be so pull your head take it to the machineshop get it fixed or replaced and except reality

[keyice]

I agree with the 22rekid on this one especially the metal stress on the head gaskets, water consumpution is either a head gasket or a timing chain cover, the water has to go some where, if you only have a little water on the oil cap and not on the dipstick that could be from condesation during cool off, water is denser than oil, drain the bottom of the oil with the engine cold, if you find water then you have fliud mixing, oil and water don't mix so the if oil is getting into the water is should be floating on top of the water when the engine is cold, check under the radiator cap, brown water could be caused by rust or minerals in the system, if you are having a rough Idle you have to have a cylinder that is misfiring wether it be a bad injector, fouled or shorted(crack ceramic) plug, bad wire or bad distro cap. I would do a compression test see if you are leaking compression, oil consumption would indicate to me a leak, bad rings, or worn valve seals, your plugs will tell you if it is the valve seals they usually leak at start up, the L shaped hose your are refering to has to do with the water pump bypass during warm up, it helps warm the air before it gets to the combustion chamber to permit better firing until the engine reaches operating temperature, a smaller hose would speed up the process of warmup due to the lack of proper movement in the water system, water pumps are non positive displacement meaning they don't have to move fluid if the flow is impeded, the fluid movement is losted in the slip of the impeller that is why I can't see why people change the water pump when they have over heat issues

[Boost_Junkiee]

just finishing up my headgasket change...... I was losing water and oil, hell it was burping oil all over my tranny. It would run fine then run bad. Off and on like that for a few weeks. Its amazing what these little engines go thru ( i overheated on a 11K foot pass 3 times) and ony 4 thousanths needed to come off my head, You best bet is to do a leakdown test or go buy that radiator kit that that has a dye that tells you if there is exhaust in your colling system. They are like $20 at your local parts store. BTW half my headgasket was GONE. 2 cylinders were floating. Iv'e never seen a headgasket this bad. Thats what you get when you have a cast iron block and aluminum heads and rapid warm ups in -40 degree temps :dunno: