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View Full Version : Engine or lift?


89toy4wd
01-26-2006, 06:42 PM
Okay, my truck is an 89 pickup w/22RE and it is my daily driver. Should I buy a new engine (any suggestions on where to get one or rebuild, etc), or Lift my truck? If I lift it I will also put bigger tires on it, steering stabilizer, rims, and gears. My truck does need some engine work [burns oil, smokes (blue when started and not warmed up, and blackish/brown when under semi-heavy throttle)]. My truck only has 132k miles on it, I just dont know what to do? It also burns oil when at higher RPM, like on the highway if i go over 60. If I stay at 60 and dont go over it, i still burn some but not as much. Please help me.

wyatt
01-26-2006, 07:24 PM
Lifts are WAY overrated. Besides, you need an engine BAD!

vigilantejustic
01-26-2006, 07:25 PM
how much money do you have to put into your truck?

I looked at your car domain and uhhh nice ricer :spanka:

you asked VERY broad questions, and we need a bit more information

does your motor bog down? does it over heat? what's your oil level at?

you can buy rebuilt 22re's at around 700-800 bucks depending on where you go

as for lift, depends on what kind of offroading you plan on doing, what size of tires you want to run. There's lots of information here and on other toyota message boards, search them, you'll find out everything you ever wanted to know about toyotas and more

as for new rims, your rims are pretty clean, I like the stock ones but a good rim are rock crawler steel rims, they run around 60 bucks a pop.

89toy4wd
01-26-2006, 08:06 PM
My engine doesnt overheat or bog down, it runs great. Nice and smooth. It just smokes a little and burns some oil. I only do some minor off-roading. I like mudding the most though. I want to at least run 33in tires on 15 or 16 inch rims. I will need at least a 3 inch lift.For a lift I want somthing that rides good. This is my first 4wd ever and I am new to wheeling. Do you recomend blocks in the back, or not. I think they are just for show. I saw a 4 inch lift from ruff(or tough) country that was a good price, but the rear had blocks. I would like to do try some rockcrawling, but there is no place around here to go offroading!

What do you think about BFG all-terrains for tires. Or maybe BFG MT's? I want a tire that is good offroad and lasts a while on the street!

89toy4wd
01-26-2006, 08:08 PM
By the way, I took those taillights off, and put the old ones back on, I got tired of the ricer look. I am going to update my site once it stops raining and I can wash my truck. Ive done a couple of things since then.

hoss"87"toy
01-26-2006, 08:56 PM
hey, 89toy4wd i've read your treads all the way back to nov. ,sounds to me like valve guides to me. You asked if you should lift your truck or do your engine. You should do your engine first, what good is all that other shit if your engine goes on you. :spanka: If you got money for all the that stuff hold off on a few things and get your moter done! Trust me i just did mine for $1200 its been punched .20 over , 3 sided valve job and a trd cam. then send another $400 for a ceramic header from L.C. engineering, you'll be thank'n me later when you got the ponys to turn those bigger tires. :grin: .................................................. .................................................. ........hoss"87"toy :devillook .................................................

vigilantejustic
01-27-2006, 02:25 AM
good move on the tail lights hehe

as far as lift or motor goes.... get the motor taken care of first. If you don't know how to work on your truck very much, get a chilton and\or a FSM (factory service manual) FSMs are expensive but they have a LOT of step by step and very technical information in them. I agree it sounds like something to do with the valves, I'll admit it I don't know too much about working on the valves, and if you don't it'd be best to have a shop do it if you have the money, then sit in and watch them as they do it and learn. If you don't have the money live by the manual (this applies to all repairs)

anyways, since you're not rock crawling your independant front suspension is ok (lots of people switch to the older solid axles which are tougher for rock crawling, its called sas for solid axle swap) only problem for you is that lifts for IFS trucks are expensive but you do have a good option which is a body lift. You can get a body lift kit that's 3" tall (don't go over that or it can get dangerous) and fit 33"s just fine.

NEVER EVER THINK OF USING BLOCKS they're dangeous and can end up causing you to roll your truck over. You can get a 3" body lift for around 120 bucks more or less

as for running gears with 33" tires: You can run em with the stock gears, but you'll notice a significant drop in the power. The gears you want for 33"s is 4.88, that'll bring the power to about what you're used to.

89toy4wd
01-29-2006, 05:29 PM
Okay, I need the engine fixed, how should I go about it? Do I need to buy a new head, or what? I know a lot about engines, but I can still learn more. What other things should I do while the engine is being worked on? Should I just re-build the whole damn thing? About how much would the repair cost? Would changing the head fix this problem, maybe get an LC engineering head or somthing.

hoss"87"toy
01-29-2006, 06:33 PM
you can do the top end only but you take the chance of blowen out the bottem end later . for the price of a L C engineering head that is about $1300 bucks you can get your block done complete , with a nice valve job and a bad ass cam . :grin:

89toy4wd
01-30-2006, 06:53 PM
you can do the top end only but you take the chance of blowen out the bottem end later . for the price of a L C engineering head that is about $1300 bucks you can get your block done complete , with a nice valve job and a bad ass cam . :grin:

So I guess I should rebuild the whole thing, and do a valve job. Thats okay, I was looking to spend 2500 on tires, gears, and suspension. So 1300 Isnt bad.

MO_4Runner
01-30-2006, 07:17 PM
If you get it done and in for 1300 then with 1200 you can still mod your truck. They sell cheap IFS kits for your truck, some used 33's and wheels and be a whole new truck.

hoss"87"toy
01-30-2006, 08:57 PM
Glad to here your thinken of doing the whole thing , you wont be sorry. I just got done put'n the finshing touches on mine tonight. Gonna fire the bitch up after work. That L.C. header was a pain in the ass to get on without scratch'n the shit out of it. but its in and looks good !!!!!! :phatyo:

I CHECKOUT YOUR PHOTOS "NICE TRUCK "


P.S. IF YOU HAVE A SHOP YANK IT AND STAB IT ADD A $ 1000

89toy4wd
01-31-2006, 07:46 AM
P.S. IF YOU HAVE A SHOP YANK IT AND STAB IT ADD A $ 1000

Do you think I should re-build it or buy a new long block? I was talking to some people and they said it might be cheaper to buy a new long block. This truck is my daily driver and I need a way to get to and form work, and school.
I can afford some domn time but not too much. I hate driving my parents cars, they are all automatic and I hate automatic!!

LCengineering has a long block for 3500 that has 150+ HP and is stroked. Can my transmission handle that?

hoss"87"toy
01-31-2006, 04:26 PM
I SPENT $ 1250 ON MINE , AND IT PUSH'N 145 HORSE. THE KEY IS YOUR TOP END. IF YOU CAN GO 3-4 DAYS DO IT YOUR SELF. IF NOT PAY A SHOP TO DO IT IN 1-2 DAYS AND ADD ABOUT $1000 FOR LABOR. I PULLED MINE MYSELF, DROPED IT OFF ,3 DAYS LATER I PICKED IT UP AND PUT IT BACK IN . DOWN TIME WAS JUST UNDER A WEEK. HEY IF YOU TAKE YOUR BLOCK IN TO BE REBUILT GO BY YOUR LOCAL YOTA DEALER AND ASK WHO THEY SEND THERE MACHINE WORK TO. THEY DO THAT SOMETIMES WHEN THERE SWAMPED. THAT WILL TELL YOU WHO TO GO TO AND IT WILL BE DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME .

BUT IF YOU GOT THE MONEY HERE YOU GO



ON THE L.C. BLOCKS #1012012 EFI PRO LONG BLOCK $3,522.27
#1012015 EFI PRO STROCKER LONG BLOCK $4,191.52


P.S. GET A HEADER AND PUT IT IN WHILE YOU GOT THE BLOCK OUT! :phatyo: