Clutch Replacement

[AZWILDYOAT]

I recently had the clutch go out on my 92 Toy P/U half way through Upper Tax Collector! A big thanks to the owner of the Chevy Blazer (BDOZER) for pulling me out!!! After a lot of searching, I decided to re-place my own clutch. I found that most people like the after-market clutches, I.E. CenterForce, Marlin, etc. But for for the money they aren't worth it. Most people seemed to favor the LUK Clutches. I also found that most people dis-liked the heavier fly-wheels. I bought my clutch from Pep Boys, the basic kit cost me $149.99 plus tax. They also sell a Luk Gold Package that has 10% more holding power. The cost was around $220, so I opted not to get it. The kit comes with every thing you need to replace the old clutch. I then went to NAPA and bought a re-furbished fly-wheel for $45 plus a $40 core charge. You can also just have your old fly-wheel re-surfaced for around $25. You will also need to re-place the t-case and tranny oil. I went to A-Z rentals and got a tranny jack. It cost $30 a day to rent plus a deposit, compared to $320 to buy my own. I highly recomend the tranny jack! You can also purchase a transmission adapter for your floor jack. The total cost me somewhere around $250 for every thing. Compared to the $430+ the clutch shop wanted. The job isn't very complicated but more time consuming than anything! The hardest part is re-attaching the tranny to the motor. The job probably took us a good 8-10 hours, considering me and my buddies have never done it. I would definitely recommend doing it yourself and have a few friends help! Thanks again to those who wrote the following write ups!!! Good Luck! - Josh Velez P.S.- Thanks to my friends for helping me out! I wouldn't have been able to do it without you!


http://bb.wildyoats.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=985

[AZWILDYOAT]

Clutch change in a 1993 4Runner, V6 5 speed – w/ G58 transmission

Introduction –

Changing the clutch proved to be a time consuming task, but not overly technically challenging. Any two banana mechanic can complete it. The most important part is in the preparation. Make sure you have all the necessary tools on hand and an assistant lined up. While one person can handle most of the task, it is essential to have an assistant nearby to raise and lower the transmission. Read all you possibly can in advance and gain a complete understanding of the task. The factory manuals, while not essential, are a great reference to have on hand

Let me also say that there is no substitute for torque!!! Have a variety of ½” and 3/8” 6-point sockets on hand, universal joints, and approx. 20-24” worth of extensions. (Preferably long ones as opposed to short ones stacked.) Also spray everything with liquid wrench daily for at least one week prior to performing the change.

When changing the clutch, make sure you also order a new clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing and a release bushing. The picture below shows the contents of the TRD clutch kit, containing a new clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing/release bushing, pilot bushing, and a clutch alignment tool.

This is also a good time to change the rear engine main seal and the transmission input shaft seal. Also plan to have a nearby shop lined up to resurface the flywheel. It’s also a good time to change the transmission fluid and the transfer case fluid. Both use 75W-90 gear oil. Also consider changing the fuel filter if you haven’t done so in a while, it’s much easier to do while the cross-member is out.

Now to begin:

1) Disconnect the battery
2) Drain the transmission
a) Use a 24mm 6-point socket to remove the drain plug.
3) Remove the transfer case skid plate, if present
a) There are 2-12mm bolts holding the plate in place.
4) Drain the transfer case
a) Use a 24mm 6-point socket to remove the drain plug
5) While the vehicle is still on the ground break all of the necessary bolts loose. ( Read ahead and determine which bolts qualify)
6) Remove the front factory skid plate, if present.
a) There are 4-12mm bolts holding the plate.
7) Use a chisel or permanent marker to place match marks on the front end of the rear drive shaft.
8) Remove the front end of the rear drive shaft
a) There are 4-14mm bolts holding the drive shaft A pair of 14mm box-end wrenches makes this easier.
9) Remove the cardan-joint protective cover
a) There are 2-12mm bolts and 2-12mm nuts to remove
10) Use a chisel or permanent marker to place match marks on both ends of the front drive shaft.
11) Remove the front drive shaft
a) There are 4-14mm bolts at each end of the drive shaft.
12) Remove the bolt holding the passenger side end of the steering stabilizer. (This allows access to the starter bolts.)
a) 1-14mm bolt and nut.
13) Remove the starter.
a) One 14mm bolt is accessible from the front using a long (~18”) extension bar on a socket drive. (after removing the steering stabilizer in step 12).
b) The other 14mm bolt is accessible from the rear side of the starter.
14) Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission housing
a) The slave cylinder is held in by 2-12mm bolts.
15) Disconnect the reverse lights and other electrical connectors on the passenger side of the transmission bell housing.
16) Remove the electrical connector from the offset on the driver side and the cross-member
17) Remove the shifters from inside the vehicle.
a) Remove the 4 phillips head screws holding in the front center console and the shifter knobs.
b) Remove the 2 phillips head screws inside the center storage bin and the rear heater control knob (if present). Remove the rear half of the center console by rotating it towards the rear seat a little. Lift off the front section of the center console.
c) Remove the 4 large phillips screws and lift off the rubber seals around the sticks.
d) Remove as many of the 12mm bolts holding the sticks in place, the rest will be easier to get after removing the crossmember and the transmission is partially lowered.
18) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the standoff mounted to the transmission case.
a) It is probably easier to break the bolt and replace it with a 5/16” x1-1/2” nut/bolt combo.
19) Remove the exhaust pipe standoff from the transmission case.
a) There are 2-14mm bolts to remove
20) Remove the two sway bar bushings mounted on the frame rails. This will allow the sway bar to rotate down and out of the way.
a) There are 2-12mm bolts at each bushing.
21) Rotate the 3rd member out of the way to gain clearance
a) There are 3-19mm bolts that must be removed (don’t forget to put a wrench on the nut on top). Use some rope and tie the 3rd member up so it doesn’t rotate too much and become a pain to reinstall
22) Place the front end of the vehicle on jack stands.
23) Support the transmission with a tranny jack or modified floor jack (see picture)


24) Remove the rear crossmember
a) There are a total of 12 bolts holding the crossmember, 4-17mm bolts at each end and 4-12mm bolts in the center, accessible through the crossmember
25) Support the rear of the engine with a block of wood or jack.
26) Unbolt the transmission
a) There are 9 bolts total. The bottom 4 are 14mm (2 on each side), these hold on a stiffener plate that will fall out when the bolts are removed. The remaining 5 bolts are 17 mm, 2 on each side and 1 dead center directly on top. (The one on top is easier to get from inside the cab once the transmission has been slightly lowered and the shifters completely removed.)
1) Lower the transmission slightly
2) Finish removing the stick shifts
3) Using a 24” long extension, remove the last 17mm bolt holding in the transmission by having someone hold the socket on the bolt from below, then reach through the hole inside the truck and attach the ratchet handle to the extension.
27) Carefully slide the transmission back, then lower it and roll back out of the way.
28) Remove throwout bearing (take note because install is reverse of removal)
a) Remove the clutch release fork by removing the retaining clip on the rear side. The fork and boot can then be removed by passing inwards. The bearing will then slides right off the shaft
29) Replacing the transmission input shaft seal
a) HELP NEED HERE, I don’t even see it in the manual
30) Apply molybdenum disulphide or white lithium grease to the fork contact points, clip and the transmission shaft input splines.
31) Install the new throwout bearing by sliding over the shaft
32) Install the fork and fork boot
a) Install is reverse of removal.
33) Remove Clutch Cover
a) Place match marks on the clutch cover and flywheel (if not replacing)
b) Loosen the 6-12mm clutch cover bolts until spring tension is released
c) Remove bolts and pull the clutch cover and disc off
34) Remove the flywheel
a) Place a 19mm offset wrench on the front of the crankshaft and prop in place so it doesn’t spin when loosening the flywheel bolts.
b) Remove the 8-17mm flywheel bolts.
c) BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE FLYWHEEL FROM THE CRANKSHAFT, IT IS VERY HEAVY.
35) Resurface the flywheel
a) Have a shop resurface the flywheel including the small step (it will be obvious when you look at it). This only applies if not replacing the flywheel.
36) Replace the pilot bearing
a) Use a bearing puller or one of the many tricks mentioned in the Toyota newsgroups to remove the bearing. We used a steel tool as shown below:


37) Replace the rear engine oil seal
a) Help needed here
i) Looks like rear end plate
ii) Rear oil seal retainer
iii) rear oil seal
"Tip" Place new clutch assembly over the transmission input shaft to insure proper fit, and that you did not receive the wrong parts.
38) Reinstall flywheel and tighten bolts to 65 ft•lbf (Careful not to break any, they’re hard to find on a Sunday night at 6:45PM !!)
39) Reinstall the pilot bushing
a) Insert the bearing in place and use a mallet and piece of wood to fully seat the bearing. Check to ensure that it rotates smoothly.
40) Install the clutch plate
a) Place the clutch alignment tool in the center of the flywheel
b) Slide the clutch plate on the alignment tool
c) Install the clutch cover so that the matchmarks align with the ones placed on the flywheel.
i) Tighten in the order shown below to 14 ft•lbf
(1) Temporarily tighten the No. 1 and No. 2 bolts to hold the plate in place





d) Remove the alignment tool


Time For Reassembly:

41) Reinstall the transmission *Tip* "Jack the front of your motor up, so that the back is slightly pointed down. It gives you a better angle to slap the tranny in. You may have to play with the jack and the motor to make them even, but it makes it a lot easier."
a) Slide the transmission back into place such that the transmission input shaft slides into the pilot bushing. Insert as many of the 9 transmission bolts as possible to pull the transmission in the final inch or so.
i) It would be helpful to have studs the same size and threads as the transmission bolts to use as alignment pins.

[AZWILDYOAT]

What you'll need is....
1)Good jack!
*Not sure how much you're lifted, I have to take the tires off and lower the truck so my jack can reach...
2)Another option is a Trannyjack adapter(fits on a typical floor jack), they run like $60 tho... Still cheeper then taking it in...
3)Basic set of tools sockets and such, can't recall all the sizes. If you don't have a Body lift, then you need a few long extentions, I recomend "wabbalies"(sp?) they're like a standard extention, but they have a oval like head, not square...
3-a)A torque wrench(foot lbs)
3-b)A impact gun is nice for the flywheel bolts, but you can jimmie a large screw driver in the flyeheel to keep the motor from turning...
4)A can or two of break cleaner
5)mabie a second person to help guide it down...

What you need to do....
1. Pick up a Hayns, chelton book, whatever you prefer, to fill in any steps I forgot...
1-a. Unhook the battery!
2. Pull the Drive shafts out, shoot some greese in there while there out...
3. Take the shift boot plastic trim and everything out from the top... You can remove the shift sticks(leave it in first gear), but make sure that you get the holes covered back up, cardboard or tape to keep crap out.
4. unplug the wireing, EFI's have two plugs to unhook, not positive on carbed trannies..
5. unscrew the Speed-O cable
6. Get the jack in place and sucured to the tranny...Center it the best you can, keep in mind that the tcase weighs about 65lbs so it will be a little okward.
7. Remove the starter, can usualy reach it from side by removing the rubber sheet in the pass. fender. Also the slave cylinder, it's right there by the starter...
8. Remove the little tabe hanger thing that hooks to the exhast. MAKE SURE that you put that back on when finished, if not you'll develope a crack in the exhast manifold shortly after....
9. work all the bolts loose, The two hardest ones are a the top, it helps to have one person hold the socket on, and one inside the cab turning the ratchet...
10. With all the bolts loose, or out. You can unbolt the cross-member. Leave it attached to the tcase, helps steady when lowering...
11. Now you (mabie a friend) need to try to keep everything level to the motor. It may take a bit of jurking back to get it to come loose, but it will, may need to wiggle the dshaft flange a little too, hence leaving it in gear!...Back it out and lower....!

For the Clutch.....
1> Remove the pressure plate, the clutch disk will fall out then....That's why you'll need the allignment tool to center it all back up later..
2> Remove the Flywheel, MUST either be replaced new or resurfaced. Up to you...The old one will turn a signiture into the clutchdisk and it wont last nearly as long....
3> the throw-out bearing is on the fork thing in the bellhousing...Shoot all that crap with the break cleaner too...
4> Goop some greese into the center of the piolet bearing and use a socket or rod the just bearly fits into the center and tap it with a hammer, this forces the greese back around it and pushes it right out! Replace with new!

Follow reverse order and use the book for the tourque specs...

LOL.... It looks like a lot to do but it's everylittle detal I could think of... Just take your time and do it over a weekend so if you run into trouble, you still have a nother day!

If I forgot anything or some trick, please share!

Good luck and have fun!
-Jerry-

[AZWILDYOAT]

Oh yeah... I learned all kinds of tricks...

* Leave the front driveshaft bolted to the transfer, just unbolt it from
the
diff and let it hang.

* Unbolt the rear driveshaft from the transfer only, just push it out of
the
way to the side.

* You do have to unbolt the anti-swaybar, but only from the frame mounts.
Leave it hanging.

* Unbolt and remove the crossmember FIRST, let the tranny droop under
it's
own weight, no need to support the back of the engine. ALL the
bellhousing
bolts are totally accessible, just need a very long extension and a
wobble
socket or u-joint.

* My little wooden jig I made up several years ago for my floor jack is
still working well, although I would have done a better job on it if I
had
known I was gonna use it so many times.

* Pull the console out in the cab, the shifters can be yanked right out
of
the tranny/transfer, no need to unbolt the flanges.

* Air tools are your friend.

-KLF

[lowspot]

I dont know about the rest of you but I used a jack once and it sucked.
I found out that an engine hoyst works the best just take the shift leevers (both of them ) run the arm of the hoyst in the pasenger door ( move the two front legs of the hoyst in so the tranny doesnt come to rest on them when you let it down )use a peace of chain and two bolts to bolt the open ends of the chain to the rear two shift leever mounting holes then loop the chain around the hook on the hoyst and jack it up for tention

remove all your tranny bolts, crossmembers and drive lines
oh make sure you jack up the rear of th engine pull the tranny back and let it down. I found an old creeper works real well to put the tranny on
replace your clutch thats the easy part

going back in is great you can see what you are doing, the tranny moves freely because it suspended in the air so it alot easier to stab and you dont have that dam jack in your way when you try to put your crossmember, and engine bolts back in

1 person engine lift clutch kit 2 to 2 1/2 hr in the driveway

[RedRockCrawler]

If your just replacing the clutch / throw out bearing no need for all the jacks and stuff. Just unbolt the transmission at the motor ( bell housing) and crossmember, drive shafts, shift levers, etc....and with the help of a friend, lift and move the transmission back about 12" or so. The transmission and t-case will rest on the cross member. Replace the clutch and service the fly wheel if needed. Reassemble. 2 hours tops. This is if you have a single case, if your running duals, it is a little more difficult.

[AZWILDYOAT]

I found a write up and pics. about a clutch replacement-
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/maintenance/clutch/

[yota_loyalist]

the rest of you are not to smart..you are making it way to big a dea, i mean, drain the transmissoin i think i read!?!!
why!!?!?!
the bell housing has no fluid in it.

[AZWILDYOAT]

Hey genius learn English grammar before you tell me I'm not too smart. One if you don't have a 4x4 you need to drain it, 2nd why not drain it, it's not as heavy and it doesn't hurt to change the fluid. P.s I didn't write the damn directions. You would know that if you could read. Either way is just about the same amount of time.

[sublyme89]

I have found that two strong guys is better than any jack. This way you have more control of the trans. I would have agree with Rockcrawler on this one.

[jvmin]

I pulled my truck up on the curb and blocked it off, so it couldn't roll, locked down the brakes and me and a friend got under it, pulled it out and reinstalled the seals in the tranny as well as put a new clutch in it.( mud deteriorates the seals )

it took us about four hours because we had to find someone to turn the flywheel down, (excuse me) "resurface" the flywheel and then we put it all back together. it helps to have some mechanical experience and good tools (Air tools preferrably). made it real easy

mine has a body lift so getting to the bolts was easier than usual.

even with the drivetrain lift.

I liked the idea of the engine hoist if you have a garage to work in

put that just won't cut it in your back yard:D unless you put something under it

[lawdog188]

i just replaced the cluch this weekend, it was pretty easy...just took some time, and lining the tranny back up wasnt too bad, i think we go lucky, i used a motocycle jack to take the tranny out..worked great, other than the time it was a piece of cake:Rockonman

[Adam F]

Do I have to support the engine when i remove the trans on my 88 V6 5speed? I just did the clutch on a 94 Nissan Sentra and we had to jack up the motor and trans, but that was easy since we had a lift, but now I don't and I don't have a jack high enough for the motor, just the trans jack I'm going to rent.

[AZWILDYOAT]

No you don't need to support the engine, it will be fine.

[propane]

whoa what detail:o :o

[jvmin]

to add to this I just recently used the hoist in the driveway to yank the transmission and transfer case to get the dual cases in.

it was so easy I laughed about it.

I just removed the passenger seat and the shifter boots and the shifters. the seat wasn't necessary, but I didn't want to get it dirty.

I unhooked all the cables and wires. Yanked the crossmember and the bell housing bolts. Un hooked the drive shafts and lowered it to the ground. Letting it rest on the lower legs of the lift. Then rotated it 90 degrees and lowered again to the floor jack to roll out from under the truck. was it ever easy.

then to re install with the dual cases. I just hooked the chain between the front shifter, and the rear shifter and lifted it in. I did have to use a small spreader bar on the chain to align it with the shifter holes.

It slide right in. I was able to lay under it, and manuever it, with out holding it up and having a jack in the way, made alignment really easy.:Thumbsup:

[bigrubbers4x4]

i just replaced my clutch 2 weeks ago by myself, i just unbolted the driveshafts then the t-case from the tranny, then unbolted the tranny form the engine and dropped the front down to the one side and i worked on the other side, when i was done i layed on my back and bench pressed the tranny back up into location and stuck a bolt in to hold it while i re-menuvered myself to get the rest in, wasnt to hard, no draining necessary, but i did loose some fluid from the t-case. air tools are one of the greatest inventions since sliced bread.

[ToyotaMike]

I like many of you opted to put my own clutch in as aposed to haveing somene that knows what there doing .this furom was a great help,except for a few minor details that may help others.Like many people I live in the inner city and have no driveway to work in.and no way or place to keep a trannie jack or other needed items.I have a 4x4 with good clearence.I lucked out with room to move under it.With a $25 2 ton floor jack and a four wheeled furniture carrier.Made from four peice's of 1x4.and four wheels which sits about 4 inches off ground.I sat the jack on the cart giving me plenty of room and mobility.And there made to hold a few hundred pounds.once I pulled the trannie out and down it moved great on a blacktop street.Second thing was the hardest thing I ran into apart from the lack of confidence ,was removing the pilot bearing. For the life of me I couldnt remove it using the grease packing and hammering trick.So I made a jig using a four inch bolt with a head that just fit in the pilot hole with the head in the hole I put a small peice of hard plastic in the hole next to the threads against the head inside the hole pushing the bolt against the wall of the bearing.Using a 1 x 4 inch of hardwood"maple"Drilling a hole in the center large enough for the threads of the same bolt I slid it over the threads and a washer and nut on the bolt and behind that I sat two hard peices of wood with enough clearance for the bearing to come out "two more smaller peices of 1x4..Tightening the nut slowly it pulled the pilot bearing .And plop It was out clean and fast.Im sure pictures would help to ilistrate my endever.but none the less Im now confident to do most anything to my 16 year old trusty ride.I hope this helps and doesnt confuse anyone.